NOVELS 

VicomtedeBragelonne,2vols. Dumas. 
' Lewis Arundel, by Smedley. 
' Frank Fairlegh, by Smedley. 

Harry Coverdale, by Smedley. 

The Colville Family, by Smedley. 

Monte Cristo, Complete, by Dumas. 

Memoirs of a Physician, by Dumas. 



AT 2s. 6d. 

, The Three Musketeers, and Twenty 
| Years After, by Dumas. 
! The Taking of the Bastile, Dumas. 
! Tristram Shandy, and Sentimental 
! Journey, by Sterne. 

Carleton's Traits and Stories of the 
' Irish Peasantry, complete edition. 



NOVELS AT TWO SHILLINGS. 



W H AINbW^ 

Boscobel. 
Manchester Re 
Preston Fight. 
Beau Nash. 

CaT)t. ARMS! 

The Two MidsJ 
The Medora. 
f The War Hawl 
The Young Con 

BERTHA H I 

Jen 
Wc 
Fet 
Grt 



i 

Ca 



Tj-rvrrr a t>tyc« i T/;^,rr'o riwr, R^rr! <3rerS. 

de. 

Love, 
■ied. 
burn's 



3 Roy. 
ragon. 



Lif 

Bei 
Toi 

Jac 

E 

Va3 
Sta 

My 
I 
Q* 
£ J 

On 
Bla 

Ni? 

Su: 
Lir 



The Pickwick 
' Sketches by B 
! Nicholas Nickleby. 
j Oliver Twist. 

Martin Chuzzlewit. 

Grimaldi, the Clown. 

Dombey and Son. 
ALEX. DUMAS. 

The Half-Brothers. 

Marguerite de Valois. 

The Mohicans of Paris. 

The Three Musketeers. 

Twenty Years After. 

Chicot, the Jester. 

The 45 Guardsmen. 




Gass. 
Book. 



wood Hall. 
Frank Hilton. 
The Yellow Frigate. ; 
Harry Ogilvis ; or, The 

Black Dragoons. 
Arthur Blane. 
Laura Everingham. 
Captain of the Guard, j 
Letty Hyde's Lovers. 
Cavaliers of Fortune. j 
Second to None. 
Constable of France. I 
The Phantom Regiment. ' 



Gilbert Gurney. 

The Parson's Daughter. 

All in the Wrong. 

Widow and Marquess. 

Gurney Married 

Jack Brag. 

Maxwell. 

Man of Many Friends. 
Passion and Principle. 
Merton. 

Gervase Skinner. 
Cousin William. 
Fathers and Sons. 



GEORGE ROUTLEDGE &> SONS. 



I 



NOVELS AT 1 
G. P. R. JAMES. 

The Brigand. 
Morley Ernstein. 
Darnley. 
Richelieu. 
The Gipsy. 
Arabella Stuart. 
The Woodman. 
Agincourt. 
Russell. 

The King's Highway. 
Castle of Ehrenstein. 
The Stepmother. 
Forest Days. 
The Huguenot. 
The Man at Arms. 
A Whim and its Con- 
sequences. 
Henry Masterton. 
The Convict. 
Mary of Burgundy. 
Attila. 

Margaret Graham. 

Gowrie. 

Delaware. 

Henry of Guise. 

Dark Scenes of History. 

The Robber. 

One in a Thousand. 

The Smuggler. 

De L'Orme. 

Heidelberg. 

Charles Tyrrell. 

The False Heir. 

Castleneau. 

SirTheodore Broughton. 

The Forgery. 

The Gentleman of the 

Old School. 
The Jacquerie. 
Philip Augustus. 
The Black Eagle. 
Rose D'Albret. 
The Old Dominion. 
Leonora D'Orco. 
John ^larston Hall. 
Beauchamp. 
Arrah Neil. 
My Aunt Pontypool. 

R. M. JEPHSON. 

Tom Bullkley of Lis- 

sington. 
The Girl He Left Behind 

Him. 

I A Pink Wedding. 

The Roll of the Drum. 

With the Colours. 
HENRY KIJSGSLEY. 

Stretton. 

Old Margaret. 

The Harveys. 

Hornby Mills. 
' JOHN LA1JG. 

Will He Marry Her ? 
: The Ex- Wife. 



WO SHILLINGS, c 
CHARLES LEVER. 

Arthur O'Leary. 
Con Cregan. 
Horace Templeton. 
S. LOVER. 

Rory O'More. 
Handy Andy. 

Lord LYTTON. 

Pelham. 

Paul Clifford. 

Eugene Aram. 

Last Days of Pompeii. 

Rienzi. 

Leila, and Pilgrims of 

the Rhine. 
The Last of the Barons. 
Ernest Maltravers. 
Alice ; or, The Mysteries. 
Night and Morning. 
Godolphin. 
The Disowned. 
Devereux. 
The Caxtons. 
My Novel, 2 vols. 
Lucretia. 
Harold. 
Zanoni. 

What will He Do with 
It ? 2 vols. 

A Strange Story. 

The Coming Race. 

Kenelm Chillingly. 

The Parisians, 2 vols. 

Falkland, and Zicci. 

Pausanius. 

Capt. MARRYAT. 

{Standard Novels), in bds. 

Jacob Faithful. 

Japhet in Search of a 
Father. 

The King's Own. 

Midshipman Easy. 

Newton Forster. 

Pacha of Many Tales. 

Rattlin the Reefer. 

The Poacher. 

The Phantom Ship. 

The Dog Fiend. 

Percival Keene. 

Frank Mildmay. 

Peter Simple. 

W. H. MAXWELL. 

Stories of Waterloo. 

Brian O'Linn ; or, Luck 
is Everything. 

Captain Blake. 

The Bivouac. 

Hector O'Halloran. 

Captain O'Sullivan. 

Stories of the Penin- 
sular War. 

Wild Sports in the West. 

W. J. N. NEALE. 

The Lost Ship. 



ROUTLEDGE 



niinued. 

The Captain's Wife. 
The Pride of the Mess. 
The Flying Dutchman. 
Will Watch. 
Cavendish. 
Gentleman Jack. 

Mrs. RADCLIFFE. 
Mysteries ot Udolpho. 
Romance of the Forest. 

MAYNE REID. 
The Quadroon. 
The War Trail. 
The Scalp Hunters. 
The Rifle Rangers. 
The Maroon 
The White Chief. 
The Wild Huntress. 
The White Gauntlet. 
The Half-Blood. 
Headless Horseman. 
Lost Lenore. 
The Hunters' Feast. 
The Wood Rangers. 
The Tiger Hunter. 
The Boy Slaves. 
The Cliff Climbers. 
The Giraffe Hunters. 
Afloat in the Forest. 
The Ocean Waifs. 
The White Squaw. 
The Fatal Cord. 
The Guerilla Chief. 

RICHARDSON. 
Clarissa Harlowe. 
Pamela. 

Sir Charles Grandison. 
Sir WALTER SCOTT. 

Waverley. 

G :y Mannering. 

CId Mortality. 

Heart of Midlothian. 

Rob Roy. 

Ivanhoe. 

The Antiquary. 

Bride ot Lammermoor. 

The Black Dwarf, and A 

Legend of Montrose. 
The Monastery. 
The Abbot. 
Kenilworth. 
The Pirate. 

The Fortunes of Nigel. 

Peveril of the Peak. 

Quentin Durward. 

St. Ronan's Weil. 

Redgauntlet. 

The Betrothed and High- 
land Widow. 

The Talisman, and Two 
Drovers. 

Woodstock. 

The Fair Maid of Perth. 
Anne of Geierstein. 
Count Robert of Paris. 
TheSurgeon'sDaughter. 

SONS. 



2 



NOVELS AT TWO SHILLINGS, continued. 



ALBERT SMITH. 

The Marchioness of 
Brinvilliers. [bury. 

Adventures of Mr. Led- 

Scattergood Family. 

Christopher Tadpole. 

The Pottieton Legacy. 
SMOLLETT. 

Roderick Random. 

Humphry Clinker. 

Peregrine Pickle. 
ANNIE THOMAS. 

False Colours. 

The Dower House. 

lhe- Cross of Honour. 

ANTEON? TROLLOPS. 

GoldenLion of Granpere 
John Caldigate. 

Mrs. TROLLOPS. 
One Fault. 

Tho Widow Barnaby. 



The Widow Married, 
The Ward. 
Love and Jealousy. 
JULES VERNE. 

Adventures of Captain 

Hatteras. 
Twenty Thousand | 

Leagues underthe Sea. j 
Five Weeks in a Bal- j 

loon, and a Journey to 

Centre of the Earth. 

Miss WETHERELL. 

The Old Helmet. 
Melbourne House. 
Ellen Montgomery's 

Bookshelf. 
The Two School Girls. 
The Wide, V/ide World. 
Queechy. 

Author of : Whitefriars' 

Whitefriars. 



Caleb Williams, by Godwin. 
The Scottish Chiefs, by Miss Porter. 
Torlogh O'Brien, by Le Fanu. 
The Hour and the Man. Martineau. 
The Pastor's Fireside. Jane Porter. 
The Prairie Bird, by Sir C. Murray. 
The Rifleman, by Capt. Rafter. 
Salathiel, by Dr. Croly. 
The Clockmaker, by " Sam Slick." 
The Two Frigates, by Cupples. 
The Bashful Irishman. 
Deeds, Not Words, by M. M. Bell. 
The Secret of a Life, ditto. 
Murder will Out. 

Sir Roland Ashton by Lady C. Long. 
The Greatest Plague of Life, with 

Cruikshank's Plates. 
The Attache, by " Sam Slick." 
The Green Hand, by Cupples. _ 
Hajji Baba of Ispahan, by Morier. 
Whom to Marry, with Cruikshank's 

Plates. [" Sam Slick." 

Letter Bag of the Great Western, by 
Black and Gold, by P. Sanders. 
Vidocq, the French Police Spy. 
Gilderoy. by Fittis. 
Singleton Fontenoy, by Hannay. ( 
The Lamplighter, by Miss Cummins. 
Gideon Giles the Roper. T. Miller. 
The Wandering Jew, by Sue. 
The Mysteries of Paris, ditto. _ 
Land and Sea Talcs, " Old Sailor." 
Mabel Vaughan, by Miss Cummins. 
Peep o' Day, by Banim. 
The Smuggler, ditto. 
Stuart of Dunieath. Hon. Mrs.Norton. 
Adventures of a Strolling Player. 
The Solitary Hunter, by Palisser. 
Kaloolah, by Mayo. 
Won in a Canter, by "Old Calabar.'* 
Blount Tempest. J. C. M. Bellew. 



Whitehall. 
Caesar Borgia. - 
Owen Tudor 
The Maid of Orleans- 
Westminster Abbey. 
Madeleine Graham. 
Armourer s Daughter. 

EDMUND YATES. 
Running tire Gauntlet. 
Kissing the Rod. 
The Rock Ahead. 
Black Sheep. 
A Righted Wrong. 
The Yellow Flag. 
The Impending Sword. 
A Waiting Race. 
Broken to Harness. 
Two by Tricks. 
A Silent Witness, [tient. 
Dr. Wamwright's Pa- 
Wrecked in Port. 
Business of Pleasure. 

VARIOUS AUTHORS. 

Mornings at Bow Street, with Cruik- 
shank's Plates. 
The Arctic Regions. P. L. Simmonds. 
Miss Forrester. Author of "Archie 
Lovell " 

The Pretty Widow, by Chas. Ross. 
Recommended to Mercy. 
Love Stories of English Watering 
Places. 

Saved by a Woman, by Author of 

" No Appeal.'' 
At His Gates, by Mrs. Oliphant. 
Helen, by Miss Edgeworth. 
First Lieutenant's Story. Lady Long. 
Clement Lorimer, by A. B. Reach. 
Tom Cringle's Log. Michael Scott. 
Private Life of an Eastern King. 
Hearths & Watchfires. Col. Colomb. 
The City of the Sultan, Miss Pardoe. 
Through the Mist, by Teanie Hering. 
Tales of the Coastguard. Warneford. 
Leonard Lindsay, by A. B. Reach 
Traits and Stories of Irish Peasantry, 
ist & 2nd series, 2 vols. Carleton. 
Romance of Military Life. 
Robber of the Rhine, by Ritchie. 
The Polish Lancer, by keeistab. 
Jasper Lyle, by Mrs. Ward. 
Flower of the Forest, by St. John. 
Cruise of the Midge, by M. Scott. 
Thaddeus of Warsaw. Jane Porter. 
The Hazelhurst Mystery. 
Les Miserables, by Victor Hugo. 
Love or Lucre, by R. Black. 
Strafford, by H. B. Baker.- 
The Prodigal Daughter, Mark Hope. 
Madge Dunraven. [Kingston. 
Roger Kyffin's Ward, by W. H. G. 
Miss Roberts's Fortune. S.Winthrop. 
An Uninhabited House. Mrs.Riddell. 
Children of the Abbey. R. M. Roche. 



GEORGE ROUTLEDGE 6» SONS. 



3 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE: 



BEST METHODS EMPLOYED 

IN 

ENGLAND AND FRANCE. 

BY 

JAMES BARNES, 
it 

AND 

WILLIAM ROBINSON, F.L.S. 

ffititb (translation of ^r.j^cbxenf s feag on J^sparagns. y 

AND 

PARTICULARS OF THE SEVEN YEARS' COMPETITION INSTITUTED POR ITS 
IMPROVEMENT. 

LONDON 

GEORGE ROUT LEDGE AND SONS 
Broadway, Ludgate Hill 
NEW YORK : 9, LAFAYETTE PLACE 



4 



£y transler fro** 
Pat. Offloe UH. 
4*14) 1014, 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE, 



The Asparagus (Asparagus officinalis) belongs to the Lil.) 
family, and is a member of a large genus of plants, mostly 
natives of Africa, distinguished by fine small leaves, which 
make some of the kinds very graceful and elegant. The 
common kind is a native of sandy shores all round the basin 
of the Mediterranean, and grows along those of western 
Europe, till it reaches the western and south-western shores 
of England. It also grows on sandy plains in South Europe 
and North Africa. The flowers, which are small, are 
greenish-white, borne in twos or threes, and are succeeded 
by small, round, red berries, and the plant has a very elegant 
and feathery habit. . , 

SOIL, MANtfKE, ETC. 

Soils, subsoils, and situations differ, and so must practice 
also. The soil all round our sea-coast, if rich, is eminently 
suitable for Asparagus ; and once properly planted, it might 
go on for half a century without any more assistance than 
it gets from the flooding of each spring tide. Change the 
scene; place the beds in Sherwood Forest, with 10 to 20 
feet of drift sand underneath them, and, without the liberal 
use of the manure cart, in seven years you would not have 
a piece of Asparagus as thick as a pipe-stem. For good 
and lasting beds of Asparagus, considerable depth of soil 
is requisite. The best soil is a rich friable loam ; but good 
crops may be obtained from any good sandy or mellow loam. 
Should the texture of the soil be too close, it should he- 
sufficiently lightened and made porous by the application of 
large quantities of manure ; sand or sandy mud is, however, 
more beneficial than manure in its opening qualities for heavy 
soils. The situation for this vegetable should be open to the 
sun, yet sheltered from strong winds. As Asparagus is one 
of the most permanent and important of all garden crops, and 
well-made beds continue in a good bearing condition for twenty 



4 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 



years cr more, it is advisable to decide, before forming the plant- 
ation, whether or not any alterations are likely to be made that 
would in any way disturb the beds. The ground should be 
trenched to the depth of 3 feet, at the same time turning in a 
heavy dressing of manure and seaweed (should the latter be 
easily obtained, otherwise it would not be advisable to go to 
the expense of procuring it, as very good Asparagus can be 
grown without it) ; and should the ground be deficient in 
depth or quality, some good sweet loam from an old pasture 
may most advantageously be employed. These ought to be 
thoroughly incorporated with the soil at the time of trenching, 
and so worked that they may have an enriching and ameliorat- 
ing influence on every particle of soil in the beds. This trench- 
ing should be performed in the beginning of winter, and laid 
up in the common way of ridging, thus to remain till spring, 
when, towards the end of March or first week of April, according 
to the state of the weather and condition of the ground, the 
ridges may be levelled, choosing for the operation a fine dry 
day. ITork and tumble over with a strong fork or pickaxe 
the ridges at all times when frozen hard, in order 
to pulverize, sweeten, and incorporate all well together 
The principle of success with this vegetable lies within a small 
compass. All seem to acknowledge that, in order to obtain a 
good crop, there must be a good depth of rich soil. About 
forty years ago a good piece of ground was chosen to make a 
permanent plantation of Asparagus. It was trenched 3 feet 
deep in trenches 3 feet wide, and cast up into rough ridges, 
after a crop of summer Peas. All decaying vegetation in the 
rubbish-yards and corners was at the same time well salted and 
turned up. Early in autumn, also, were added some old Mush- 
room, Melon, and Cucumber -bed material, a lot of manure from 
piggeries, cow-houses, and stables, a quantity of road-grit and 
sand, a quantity of ditch and drain parings, turfy loam and 
sods, quite 3 feet thick. These were all turned over four times 
and well incorporated together, between Michaelmas and Lady 
Day, as one would a dung-heap, the whole being left in large 
ridges exposed to the frost.* ~> By April this compost was in a 
kindly state ; it was, therefore, laid down and planted with 
good, clean, one-year-old Asparagus plants, which certainly 
grew in a most extraordinary way, and the second year pro- 
duced wonderful shoots as to size ; and the same plantation 
has continued to produce fine heads ever since. In order to 
give a fair idea of the quality of " grass " which this plantation 
is still producing, it may be mentioned that one hundred heads 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 



g 



cnt from it now average from 12 lbs. to 14 lbs. weight, tlie 

heads being 7 inches in length. Even after forty years' exist- 
ence, this plantation is still improving, and it looks as if it 
would be as good sixty years hence as it is now. 

Wherever ordinary farm-yard manure is not very abundant 
and labour plentiful, a good result may be obtained by col- 
lecting together all decomposing vegetable matter — old 
hotbeds, Mushroom beds, pig refuse, &c, with seaweed where 
convenient ; and, when the position for the beds is determined 
upon, this should be spread upon the ground about a foot 
thick, and turned over with 2 or 3 feet of the earth two or 
three times in winter. This treatment will be attended with 
very excellent results. 

The application of salt as a top dressing is of great benefit 
to Asparagus in inland districts, but is of little or no value 
in the vicinity of salt water. It should be applied in spring 
and very early summer by scattering some common coarse 
salt over the ground in showery weather. Old and well- 
established plantations are particularly benefited by this 
treatment; but in no case should it be applied to plants 
recently removed, for all such, however carefully transplanted, 
must have wounded roots, to which salt would prove very 
injurious ; nor should it; be applied at any time when the 
roots are in a dormant state. Besides its beneficial effects 
upon the plant as a manure, it is very destructive to the wire- 
worm and other insects so injurious to the roots of the 
Asparagus. Salt may safely be applied at the rate of 2 lbs. 
per square yard. It is, however, better to give this quantity 
in two doses. It should not be applied in dry or gunny 
weather. 

SEED SOWING. 

Asparagus is propagated by seed, which may either be sown 
when ripe in October, or in spring ; but the latter time is cer- 
tainly the best. It may either be sown on the ground pre- 
pared for the plantation, or in drills one foot apart in beds of 
light, rich, sandy soil, and transplanted to a permanent 
position when one year old, which is by far the most desirable 
method. To get strong clean plants at one year old, and to 
save a year's strength, sow thinly, and hoe out quickly after the 
plants are up, with a sharp one-hand 3-inch hoe, or otherwise 
thin the plants to 3 or 4 inches apart, taking care to select all 
the strongest plants to stand ; thus, very strong clean plants 
may bs produced in one year. By keeping the seed beds 



ASPABAGTJS CULTUSB* 



carefully hoed and free from weeds, the plants will be in fine 
condition for planting out the following spring; whereas, 
should they be neglected, it will take two years before they are 
as large as well-attended one-year-old plants. It is in conse- 
quence of this very common neglect that many cultivators 
labour under the impression that the plants must be two or 
three years old before planting; which is undoubtedly a 
mistake, for all good growers invariably plant one-year-old 
plants, and count on reaping a crop the third spring from the 
time of sowing. One pound of seed will produce about 3,000 
plants, and to plant an acre of Asparagus requires from 15,000 
to 20,000 plants. JSome of the finest shoots which push in the 
early part of the season from certain crowns should be allowed, 
to run to seed. These should have the full benefit of exposure 
to light and air ; and, as they advance in growth, they must 
be firmly staked, to prevent breakage by wind. When fully 
ripe, the largest and finest berries, of the deepest red colour, 
should be selected. They should then be carefully and 
gradually dried ; or they may, after lying about ten days, be 
squeezed between the hands, and the pulp washed away ; but 
by the former method they keep the longest. 

PLANTING. 

This should not be done till after the buds begin to push, as 
this plant, from its peculiar succulent roots, is less susceptible 
of injury from late planting than most other vegetables ; yet 
it should not be delayed too long after the ground has become 
fit for its reception, in the end of April, as the sooner it is 
then planted the better will be the result. Plant in rows 2 feet 
apart, 16 inches being left between the plants in the row. 
Planting in rows in preference to beds is recommended, for 
by so doing the plants are allowed room enough to develope 
their roots without interlacing each other, and consequently 
causing an impoverishment of the soil. After being planted 
two years, every alternate row is best taken up for forcing, 
thus leaving the permanent rows 4 feet apart. The direction 
of the rows for the main crops is immaterial, but for the 
earliest ones it would be advisable to run them east and west, 
so as to be more immediately under the direct action of the 
sun's rays when they are most powerful. As soon as the 
Asparagus has commenced to shoot an inch or two, level the 
ground down methodically, mark out the rows 2 feet apart, 
placing a stake at each end, where the rows are to be planted ? 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 



7 



stretch, and place the line tight from end to end, diciw a deep 
drill with the hoe on each side of the line, thus leaving a little 
ridge under the line, over which the planter should regulate 
the roots of the plants on each side, putting in the earth to 
cover them quickly as he proceeds. The hoe should be regu- 
larly used during the remaining summer and autumn months, 
care being taken to remove by the hand all weeds that come up 
about the crowns. When the stalks are completely withered 
in autumn, they should be cut down. Should the produce in 
spring be required in a green state, which is decidedly the best, 
an annual dressing of good manure slightly forked in should 
be given every autumn after the haulm has been cut, and thus 
left during the winter. In spring, before the buds begin to 
push, the ground should be again slightly forked over three or 
four times in dry weather, in order to lighten, pulverise, 
sweeten, and lay it down in an open healthy state, and not in too 
fine a condition, to get run together again immediately after 
the first heavy rains, but open, loose, and rather rough, in 
order to admit the sun's rays, atmospheric influence, and the 
rain kindly ; such treatment not only forwards its progress, 
but also allows it to grow freely, clean, and straight without 
obstruction. 

AGE OP PLANTS POR TRANSPLANTING. 

For planting, cleanly-grown and sound two-year-old plants 
are very generally preferred, although strong one-year-old 
plants are equally good. The balance of evidence is, indeed, in 
favour of well-grown one-year-old plants. The following 
curious experiment by a trustworthy French cultivator deserves 
consideration. 

" I planted (No. 1) twelve roots of a year old ; (No. 2), twelve 
of two years old ; and (No. 3) twelve of three years old. The 
results were as follows : — 

" First Year. — Of No. 1 all had made growth before May 4th, 
and the vegetation was fine ; No. 2, ten plants started before 
May 4th, one on the 10th, and the other failed. The shoots 
were a little stronger than those of No. 1. No. 3, eight plants 
started before May 4th, one on May 12th, and the other three 
failed; and, although at first the shoots looked well, they 
afterwards declined, and on September 15th they were feebler 
than those of No. 2. 

" Second Year. — No. 1, fine vegetation; snoots strong and 
regular on the 15th of September. No. 2, good growth; 
shoots irregular, and a little feebler than those of No. 1. 



8 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 



No. 8, growth mediocre; shoots very irregular, some roots 
having eight or ten, but all feeble ; another plant died after 
having produced two stems. 

" Third Year. — No. 1, growth magnificent : stems measuring 
on the 10th of May from 2 inches to 3 \ inches in circumference. 
No. 2, growth passable, but irregular ; some tufts small and 
weak ; the finest had shoots on the 10th of May, not more than 
2 J inches in circumference. No. 3, growth very middling and 
irregular ; some tufts gave off shoots no bigger than quills, 
and the best reached little beyond 1^ inch in circumference. 

" Fourth Year. — No. 1, growth remarkable ; the shoots 
appeared from the 3rd to the 10th of April, some as much as 
4 inches in circumference ; they afforded fifty shoots, which 
formed a bunch weighing more than 6J- lbs. No. 2, growth 
passable, but a little later than that of No. 1, and with plenty 
of small shoots ; fifty made a half bunch, weighing little more 
than the half of that cut from No 1. No. 3, vegetation poor, 
one plant not starting till the 22nd of April; fifty shoots 
formed only half a bunch, and did not weigh more than 2 \ lbs. 

" To resume, it will have been seen that the plantation formed 
with plants a year old gave at its fourth starting, or at 
the end of three years of plantation, a bunch of Asparagus 
twice as large as that of either of the others. In other terms, 
the plantation made with plants a year old produced double 
that of the one where two-year-old plants were used, and 
nearly treble that made with plants of three years old." 

CUTTING. 

Asparagus should not be cut till the second year after 
planting, and then only sparingly. By allowing the plants to 
get well and firmly established before making a very free use of 
the knife, and with judicious after-treatment, they will produce 
excellent crops for many years ; and at no time cut too severely, 
but bear in mind that the more copious and healthy the foliage 
during the summer, the stronger will be the produce next 
spring. As the strength of the roots depends on the quantity 
of foliage, there must be shoots enough left to maintain them 
healthy and vigorous, and to replace and store up for the 
following season sufficient matter for the healthy action of the 
plants. It is not advisable, however, to cut away the strong 
shoots and leave the smaller ones ; quite the reverse. Allow 
some of the finest shoots to grow after the first fortnight or 
three weeks' cutting is over, removing any small spray that may 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 



9 



appear; for a few strong shoots to each plant, properly exposed 
to light and air, will be more valuable than any quantity of 
small ones. In cutting, a little of the soil is removed from the 
necks of the shoots with the Asparagus knife, which is then 
pushed down, carefully avoiding injuring the crown or other 
shoots that may be pushing up. When the knife is at the base 
of the shoot, give it a slight twist toward s, at the same time press- 
ing it close to, the shoot ; then draw it gently upwards, by which 
process the shoot is separated from the plant. The knife generally 
used in this operation has a rough or saw-like edge, set to cut 
only one way, and that by pushing down. It should always be 
kept sharp at the three or four first teeth from the point. For 
those that are fond of natural unbleached " grass," any kind of 
knife will do, and in kindly growing weather the heads may 
even be broken off without a knife. Asparagus for market is 
generally blanched by the earthing-up system, which is done 
by covering the crowns with a few inches of light soil, gener- 
ally taken from the space between the rows, by which process 
we obtain the white bleached or blanched shoots daily seen 
during the season in the London market. When this method 
is adopted, the shoots must be cut below the surface just as it 
appears above ground. This mode, however, is not to be com- 
mended, the right way being, not to practise the earthing-up 
system, but to wait till the shoots are 6 inches above ground, 
when they may be cut over almost level with the surface. By 
so doing we obtain the Asparagus in its green and natural 
condition and of exquisite flavour, to which the blanched can 
bear no sort of comparison. The cutting season should cease 
about the middle of June, and in no case should it be continued 
after the end of that month. When green Peas can be had, 
Asparagus is less required ; therefore it is desirable to discon- 
tinue cutting after the 10th or 15th of June, 

FORCING- ASPARAGUS. 

There are several ways of forcing Asparagus, all depending 
on the same principles, yet each adapted to a different kind of 
garden. Some are expensive, others not at all so, where 
stable manure is plentiful and garden labour not a scarce 
commodity. Thirty years ago in the London market gar- 
dens a large forcing grower would purchase an acre or 
more from the grower, and send for it as his beds were 
made. At that time heating hothouses or pits of any kind 
by means of hot water was of course unknown. They employed 



10 ASPAEAGTJS CULTURE. 

a great number of common garden frames. A trencn a foot 
or so wider than the frame and 15 inches deep was then cast 
out, and in this was placed about 2 feet of London stable 
manure, and on this again a few inches of the rich friable 
earth of the old market garden which had been cast out of the 
trench, to secure the heat from evaporating. Then, soon after 
the frames were placed in a straight line on the hotbed, the 
plants were very carefully placed on the soil in the frame, 
covering them immediately with 3 or 4 inches more soil, or 
more if the Asparagus was required blanched throughout. 
If wanted quite blanched, of course air and light were not 
admitted. Every twenty-four days or so a fresh set of beds 
was made to keep up the supply. 

Forcing may be commenced in TsTovember and continued till 
Asparagus is fit to gather in the open air. One of the best ways 
is to make a slight hotbed with stable manure, leaves, tan, &c. 
(these last materials, if easily obtained, will do well to mix with 
the manure), in a Melon pit, or under a common Cucumber 
frame. Two and a half feet high will be quite sufficient, and on 
the surface of the bed should be placed a few inches of light 
soil, leaf -mould, or sifted potting refuse, on which to place the 
plants, because such material does not act so effectually in 
repressing the heat as ordinary garden soil; and when the 
roots are taken up as completely and carefully as possible and 
placed thickly on this, they should be covered with a few more 
inches of the same material. If the Asparagus be required of 
its natural colour — and that is unquestionably the best way to 
enjoy it — give the frame full light and air when fine. Water occa- 
sionally with tepid water. After one good watering in the early 
stage, a little will afterwards suffice, for the winter crops at all 
events, as the slow evaporation of the period and the natural 
moisture of the bed will preserve the soil in a nice moist state. 
The heat of the bed must be preserved when it gets low by a 
lining, in the usual old-fashioned way, and by covering closely 
with mats or litter at night in cold weather — that is, if it be a 
common frame, but if in a brick pit this will not be necessary. 
The chief point is to be patient at first, to let it get a slow start, 
and not be over excited at any time, or it will start away and 
produce nothing but very weakly, spindling shoots ; whereas, 
by bringing it on gradually and regularly, a really respectable 
cutting may be obtained. 

It is also frequently forced by being placed on the floor, or 
on a bench or pit of some kind, in an early vinery or other 
forcing house; and, whenever there is space to spare, and the 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 



11 



heat is brisk and genial enough, this plan is good. Another very 
important way is by bringing the heat to the roots, and cer- 
tainly by this plan a more permanent and stable kind of 
" grass" is obtained, because plant or root is not in the least 
disturbed. But it is an expensive way, though simple. The 
beds are in the first place very well made of rich deep soil, 
and the alleys of these beds are dug out to a depth of 
3 feet or so, and then bricked ; or, in other words, the Aspa- 
ragus beds are made between low brick walls, perforated with 
" pigeon holes," to admit of the heat entering freely ; and 
whenever forcing commences, the bricked trench on each side 
of a bed is filled with fermenting manure, covered over by a 
rough shutter, and the beds themselves with small wooden 
frames made to fit ; these are, of course, only placed on during 
forcing, the beds being exposed in the summer season. The 
beds should not be more than 4 or 5 feet wide, to admit of 
the ready percolation of heat. This method is, however, only 
suited for places where a good deal of expense is devoted to 
the garden ; and the modification or improvement of it, which 
consists in having hot-water pipes passing between each bed 
and the chamber covered with a slab of stone, is a much more 
expensive one. ~No matter what system is employed, a steady 
heat of from 60° to 65° will be found most suitable. 

Another way of heating the beds is by means of hot-water 
pipes. This is a modification or improvement of the last mode, 
and is the same as is practised in the Eoyal Gardens at 




Section of two Beds with Alley between them, and half of two 
corresponding Alleys. 



Frogmore. It is certainly a very expensive method ; yet it 
must be admitted it is the most satisfactory in the end. At 
Frogmore the beds are 75 feet long and 7 feet wide, their 
sides being built with brick, " pigeon-hole" style. The spaces 
between the beds are 4 feet deep, the lower 2 feet being filled 



12 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 



V. 

with rich, soil ; and in the upper 2 feet are a flow and return 
hot-water pipe connected with a boiler that heats six such 
ranges. On the top of the beds are special frames. In severe 
weather, the sashes must be covered with mats or litter. 

Mr. Gilbert's mode of forcing Asparagus is clearly illus- 
trated by the annexed diagram, and it is that adopted to a 
great extent in the market gardens. The beds are 5 feet wide, 
with 3-feet alleys between them. The alleys are dug out to 
the depth of 2 feet, the soil being spread over the surface of 
the beds, on which frames, covered with sashes, boards, or 
shutters, are placed. The space between the beds, being 4J- 
feet deep and 3 feet wide, is filled with fermenting material, 
such as stable dung and leaves, as are also the outside half 
alleys. Before filling these spaces with litter, we make holes 
into the sides of the beds large enough to admit a one-inch 
bore drain-pipe. These holes we find beneficial in admitting 
heat to the interior of the bed. The side trenches are filled 
with hot dung to the height of the frames, the beds in which, 
marked A A, are also covered with the same material until the 
heads make their appearance, when it is removed. If white 
Asparagus is wanted, the frames are kept dark by being 
covered with shutters ; but, if green is preferred, glazed lights 
should be put on. After the fermenting material is removed 
from the beds, the frames are kept close for a few days, after 
which a little air is given on favourable occasions, a practice 
which improves both flavour and quality. It is necessary 
to maintain a temperature of 60° or 65°, but at no time should 
it exceed 70°. When this heat cannot be kept up, fresh linings 
must be added. 

ASPARAGUS CULTURE IN FRANCE: 

Asparagus is grown much more extensively and to a much 
larger size in France than it is in England. The country is 
almost covered with it in some places near Paris ; small and 
large farmers grow it abundantly, cottagers grow it — every- 
body grows it, and everybody eats it. The system of culture 
is so essentially different from ours, and so successful, that 
it is desirable to make it fully known. Near Paris it is chiefly 
grown in the valley of Montmorency and at Argenteuil, and 
it is cultivated extensively for market in many other places. 
About Argenteuil 3,000 persons are employed in the culture 
of Asparagus. It is grown to a large extent among the 
Yines. The Vine, under field culture, is simply cut down to 
near the old stool every year, and. allowed to make a few 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 



13 



growths, which are tied erect to a stake ; they do not overtop 
the Asparagus in any way, but on the other hand the strong 
plants of that show well above the Vines. It is not planted in 
distinct close lines among the Vines, but widely and irregu- 
larly. They simply put one plant in each open spot, and 
give it every chance of forming a capital specimen, and this 
it generally does. When the stems get large and a little top- 
heavy in early summer, a string is put round all, so as to hold 
them slightly together (the careful cultivator uses a stake), 
and the mutual support thus given prevents the plant from 
being hurt by wind in its prime. We all know how apt it is to 
be twisted off at the collar by strong winds, especially in wet 
weather, when the drops on every tiny leaf make the foliage 
heavy. The growing of Asparagus among the Vines is a very 
usual mode, and a vast space is thus covered with it about 
here. But it is grown in other and more special ways, not one 
of these being like our way of growing it/which is decidedly 
much inferior to the French method. 

Perhaps the simplest method, and the most worthy of 
adoption, is to grow it in shallow trenches. I have seen 
extensive plantings that looked much as a Celery ground does 



soon after being planted, the young Asparagus plants being 
in a shallow trench, and a little ridge of soil being thrown up 
between the lines of Asparagus. These trenches are generally 
about 4 feet apart. Here, for instance, is a young plantation 
planted in March. In England, the Asparagus would be left 
to the free action of the breeze, but the French cultivators 
never leave a young plant of Asparagus to the wind's mercy 
while they can procure a bit of a stake about a yard long. 
But when staking these young plants they do not insert the 
support close at the bottom, as we are too apt to do in other 
instances, but at a little distance off, so as to avoid the 
possibility of injuring a fibre ; each stake leans over its plant 
at an angle of 45 p , and when the plant is big enough to 
touch it or be caught by the wind, they tie it to the stake. 
The ground in which this system is pursued being entirely 
devoted to Asparagus, the stools are placed very much closer 




Common French mode of forming an Asparagus plantation. 



14 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 



together than they are when grown among the Yines, say ati 
a distance of about a yard apart. The little trenches are about 
<a foot wide and 8 inches below the level of the ground — 
looking deeper, however, from the soil being piled up. 

The young plants are placed in these trenches very care- 
fully. A little mound is made with the hand in each spot 
where a plant is to be placed, so as to elevate the crown a 
little and permit of the spreading out of the roots in a per- 
fectly safe manner. In fact they seem to be about as parti- 
cular as regards depositing the young plants in the first 
instance, as a good Grape-grower is about his young Yines. 
They plant in March and April— using any kind of manure 
that can be had, but chiefly here, so far as I could see, the 
refuse of the town — the ashes, old vegetables, rags, and other 
matters, that the people throw before their doors, and which 



This figure shows tlie mode of planting and the depth of the successive annual 
earthings given tc the Asparagus, as grown in France. After four or five 
years' growth the ridges disappear, and the highest points of the ground are 
those over the crowns of the roots. 

the dust-carts take away in the morning. They are very par- 
ticular to destroy weeds, and they also take good care to 
destroy all sorts of insect enemies in the mornings, espe- 
cially during the early summer. Between the lines of Aspa- 
ragus they plant small growing crops on the little ridges 
during the first years of the plantation, but are careful not to 
put the large vegetables there, which would shade and other- 
wise injure the plants. "When they plant, they spread a hand- 
ful or so of thoroughly-rotten manure over each root, and they 
repeat this every year, removing the soil very carefully in the 
autumn down to the roots, putting on them a couple of hand- 
fuls of rotten manure, and spreading the earth over again, so 
that the rain is continually washing nutriment to the roots. 
When doing this, they notice the state of the young roots, and 
where a plant has. perished, or has done little good, they place 
a slick, and replace the plant the following March. Early every 




ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 



15 



epringthey pile up a little heap of fine earth over each crown. 
When the plantation arrives at its third year, they increase the 
size of the little mound, or, in other words, a heap of finely 
pulverized earth is placed over the stool, from which some, 
but not much, Asparagus is cut the same year, taking care to 
leave the weak plants and those which have replaced others, to 
themselves for another year. 

They cut the best of it when it is about an inch and a half 
out of the ground. Let us hear the French side as regards 
blanched Asparagus : — " In certain localities they do not yet 
value the distinction between blanched and green Asparagus, 
and occasionally prefer the last. That is an error very preju- 
dicial to the consumer's interests. In the green Asparagus 
there is only the point edible ; in the white it is often entirely 
so, and, moreover, it is infinitely more tender and delicate. 
All Asparagus cut when it is green is not fit to be eaten in 
the ordinary way, but may be used cut up small as an accom- 
paniment to other dishes. To serve up green Asparagus is to 
dishonour the table ! In the markets of Paris the green 
Asparagus is worth one franc a bunch, when the blanched is 
worth three francs ; they do not eat it (the green Asparagus) 
— it serves for the manufacture of syrup of Asparagus. — 
V. F. Leboeuf." 

When the plantation reaches its fourth year, the little mound 
of blanching earth is increased to 15 inches in height, for then 
they expect to cut something worth while, and these mounds 
are made in the early part of March ; and even after this, as 
they grow stronger the little mounds are increased, and they 
always keep a look-out for the feeble plants, with a view to 
replace them. To have Asparagus as it ought to be, they say 
you must cut every day, or every two days, according to 
temperature, so that it may be obtained at the right moment ; 
indeed if they do not do this, the shoots become too high and 
too green. They place great importance on obtaining strong 
and healthy plants ; and in the establishments which I visited 
they have three kinds, 1' Ordinaire, La Hollande tardive 
improved, and La Hative d'Argenteuil. The first is described 
as very fine, the second very strong, and the last is the earliest, 
most productive, and best. Of course there are various 
modifications of the plan just described, and in several 
instances I saw two rows placed in a rather wide trench in an 
alternate manner. As to the size and quality of the Asparagus 
produced by this method there can be but one opinion. 

-Concisely : the French mode of cultivating this delicious 

2 



16 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 



vegetable differs from our own diametrically in giving each 
plant abundant room to develope into a large healthy speci- 
men, in paying thoughtful attention to the plants at all times, 
and in planting in a hollow instead of a raised bed, so that as 
the roots grow up they may have annual dressings of enriching 
manure. They do not, as we do, go to great expense in 
forming a mass of the richest soil, far beneath the roots, but 
rather give it at the surface, which is consistent with the 
nature of the roots. 

The French mode of forcing Asparagus chiefly consists in 
digging deep trenches between beds planted for the purpose, 
covering the beds with the soil and with frames, filling in the 
trenches between the beds with stable manure, and protecting 
the frames with straw mats and litter to keep in the heat. 
In the beginning of November the pathways between the 
beds of Asparagus are dug up about 2 feet deep, and as much 
wide. Divide the soil coming from the pathway very care- 




Preparation for forcing Asparagus. The trenches are dug out and filled with 
stable manure, the earth being heaped on the beds. These are covered with 
rough frames, up to the edge of which the heating material is piled. 



fully, and put about 8 inches thick of it on the surface of the 
bed. Fill up the trench with good new horse-dung, and 
place frames on the bed. The manure should rise as high as 
the top of the frames, and the lights be entirely covered with 
mats and litter, to prevent the heat accumulated in the frame 
from escaping. About a fortnight or three weeks after, the 
Asparagus begins to show itself on the surface of the bed. 
Many market gardeners cover the whole of the bed inside of 
the frame to a thickness of 3 or 4 inches with dung, to force 
the vegetation more quickly, but in this case the manure must 
be removed when the Asparagus begins to shoot. When the 
shoots are about 3 inches out of the ground they may be cut. 
The mats must be taken off in the daytime, but the heat must 
be well kept up or the roots and buds will fail to push. The 



ASPAItAGUS CULTURE. 



17 



beds are forced every second year only. The gathering of the 
Asparagns may continue for about two months, but no longer, 
or the plantation would be injured. When the gathering of 
the Asparagus is over, the frames and dung linings are taken 
away, and the soil which has been dug up from the alleys is 
put back again. The preceding applies to the forcing of the 
better qualities of Asparagus chiefly. A speciality is made of 
forcing the smaller sized Asparagus. It is in the garden of 
M. Caucannier, Place de l'Egiise, at Clichy, and a number of 
iron houses are there devoted to the culture. Indeed, if I 
mistake not, those in the Jardin Fleuriste are copied from 
them. There are frames within each house, just as in many 
propagating houses in England, and beneath them the 
Asparagus is forced for the markets, and in large quantities.. 
The houses are heated by hot water, and the culture in other 
respects resembles that which is practised in forcing gardeng 
in England — that is, when the plants are taken up to be 
forced indoors or in pits. The disturbance weakens the roots 
a good deal, and by this method the large table Asparagus is 
never forced. M. Caucannier and other growers produce it 
specially in a small state for soups, &c, but it is impossible to 
obtain in this way the large table Asparagus. 

ME. NIVEN'S METHOD OF CULTURE. 

[Mr. Mven for a long time cultivated Asparagus with suck 
success at Drumcondra, near Dublin, that we have thought 
it well to give his method of culture.] 

Any time during the winter or spring choose any portion of the 
surface of your garden, with an open south exposure ; it matters 
not much what the soil may be on which the plantation is to be 
placed — provided the surface-water, in winter, does not stag- 
nate on, or about it — but a soil of sandy quality is always te 
be preferred, where it can be obtained ; but where not to be 
had, it is easy to add a few loads of sand in the surface pre- 
paration. Having fixed upon the space to be occupied, a layer 
of half -rotted leaves, or rotten hot-bed dung, may be spread 
over the whole, about 3 inches thick, to which might be added* 
where it can be obtained, a stratum of sea-weed. This, 
during the winter, should be slightly dug into the ground 
leaving the surface in narrow ridges, to receive the action of 
the weather. Or, it may be done immediately before planting 
in spring ; @ the former time of preparation is, however* 
preferable. This process of surface management may be 



IS 



ASPARAGUS CULTUUE. 



described under the following heads, viz. : Planting, summer 
treatment, winter treatment. 



About the end of March or beginning of April (or even in 
May, when the young heads are 6 or 8 inches high), choose a 
dry day, and have the ridged-up surface neatly levelled down, 
after which, slightly dig the ground over again, which will 
thoroughly mix the surface with the manure and sand first 
applied ; then tread over the whole, regularly, with the feet, 
and proceed to mark off, with the measuring rod, the places 
for the intended lines, at 4 feet apart ; studying to run them 
as nearly north and south as possible, marking the place of 
each line with the corner of a draw-hoe, as for Peas. This 
being done all over the plot, at the distances described, have 
a quantity of compost ready, such as one-third rotten leaves, 
or rotted dung, one-third fresh soil (a hazel-coloured sandy 
loam from the corner of any grass-field is best), and one-third 
river or sea-sand. If this has been for some time previously 
prepared, so much the better. Along each drill or line lay a 
small ridge of the said materials, so that, when ready for plant- 
ing, a section of the surface of the plot will appear thus : — • 

ridge. ridge. ridge. ridge. 



Choose, if possible, good strong two-year-old plants, a 
quantity of which may always be kept in a reserve seed-bed 
for successional plantations in any odd corner of the garden. 
As it is of essential importance that the roots should be as 
little exposed as possible during planting to a drying atmo- 
sphere, it may be best to proceed thus : — carefully lift the plants, 
and cover them over in the barrow or basket with a little sand : 
proceed to set them on the little ridge or saddle prepared for 
them, as a man sits upon horseback, at about 6 inches apart 
from each other, having a person to follow with a barrowful of 
sand, which, with the spade, he lays over the roots and c rowns, 
about 1 inch thick, observing to tread successively both sides 
of each line a3 he proceeds, with one foot, to firm the sand to 
the plants, so as to secure them from the action of the air 



PLANTING. 




so 

c 

ft 



AS PAHA GITS CULTURE. 



19 



nntil the process of planting is concluded, when a second and 
final covering of about 4 inches of the compost is to be put 
over the ridges or lines, which is to be firmly trod to the line of 
plants as before. A small portion of the original surface 
between may then be thrown up with the spade, right and left, 
pressing neatly between every two lines as you proceed, and 
the process of planting, which is exceedingly simple, is finished. 
A plantation so made, containing from 140 to about 200 square 
yards, and requiring from 700 to 1,000 plants, or so, would be 
sufficient to supply Asparagus during the season for any 
ordinary family— the expense of which, apart from the plants, 
(which might be about 2s. 6d. per hundred) would be a mere 
trifle, particularly where sand and leaves or rotten dung can 
easily be had. I may remark that I much prefer the single line 
method of culture to beds, chiefly on account of the greater 
facility in the subsequent management, and because the plants 
derive more equal nutriment from the artificial surface that is 
gradually forming. The produce of two rows so treated I 
have found fully equal in quantity to any one bed with three 
lines, besides being much superior in quality. 

SUMMER TREATMENT. 

This is an important matter in Asparagus culture. Th® 
plantation being finished, as has just been described, a 
good watering or two, should the weather be very dry, 

uuldj towards May, be advisable. In May, when the short 
grass-mowing begins, a portion of it is to be brought to the 
A cparagus lines, and shaken in between, quite to the necks of 
the plants — say, so as to fill up the hollow spaces between 
nearly level, when a section of the plantation would, at this 
time, appear thus : — The object of this application, which must 

short grass. Lhort grass. short grass. 




ridge. ridge. ridge. ridge. 



be renewed about once every month during the summer, will 
be at once evident, namely — the retention of moisture, and the 
production of vegetable food ; and the slight fermentation that 
accompanies the decomposition greatly accelerates the growth 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE* 



of the plant : besides, ultimately a bed of the purest vegetable 
matter is formed, into which, on both sides, the succulent roots 
of the Asparagus plants run freely. In this way, from the 
proximity of the roots to the surface, the genial influences of 
solar heat, and due atmospheric action, are enjoyed by the 
plant, without the least danger of its ever suffering from 
drought, in consequence of the non- evaporating nature of the 
vegetable mulching or covering alluded to, which receives and 
retains, as a sponge, the greater portion of the moisture that 
falls upon it, whereas, in the common Asparagus bed, the 
surface during the dry part of the year is almost completely 
exposed to the action of the sun and air, and, during any 
continuance of dry weather, may be seen to crack or rend in 
every direction, to the destruction of the roots in very many 
instances. After the shoots have begun to come up, we imme- 
diately begin to look regularly and carefully after the thinning. 
When the plants have pushed two or more heads each, the 
weakest are regularly cut away, as the stronger heads appear; 
so that by the end of the first season, not more than two, or at 
most three shoots, are left to grow to maturity on each plant. 
Proper attention to the thinning of Asparagus, in the first 
instance, immediately after planting, during the first and second 
years and afterwards, also in cutting for use, is of essentialimpor- 
tance towards the future welfare of the plant. In consequence 
of proper attention not being paid to the subject of cutting, 
arising either from carelessness of the consequences, or from 
over-anxiety on the part of the gardener to send to table a good 
dish, much evil ensues to the plantation; for, frequently, 
instead of leaving a sufficient supply of strong shoots regularly 
over the bed, they are all cut away, and the weakest left, the 
inevitable result of which is a supply of comparatively small 
buds for the crop of the year following. 

WINTER TREATMENT. 

In November, or, as soon as the tops of the Asparagus 
become yellow, the whole should be cut over, and the soil 
along the crown of the ridge or line cleared away a little with 
the hand, when about 4 inches of sea or river sand should be 
laid along over the line of plants — this chiefly for the purpose 
of providing against the depredations of slugs in spring, and 
facilitating the clean free progress of the heads the next season . 
In the spaces between the lines, a few barrow-loads of rotten 
dung, leaves, or sea- weed may be laid, and the whole should 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 



23 



be neatly levelled with a three -pronged fork, ^stirring np the 
surface between the lines very slightly, as the levelling of the 
fresh material proceeds. No further care will be required till 
spring, when, just as the first heads begin to appear, the 
whole may be slightly stirred on the surface, and over the 
lines a little of the sand raked off. The process of mulching 
with short grass, or, instead of it, other vegetable or 
decomposing animal matter, is to be followed up, as already 
described, from year to year. The second year some of the 
thinnings may be fit for use, but by no means should any of the 
strong heads be cut for that purpose, except where there are 
too many to one plant, as the patience and forbearance now 
exercised will be amply repaid by the produce next year, when 
the crop may be regularly cut for use. In gathering 
Asparagus, a habit prevails of cutting the heads a few inches 
below the surface ; but for what useful purpose I am at a loss 
to conceive ; inasmuch as the white or blanched part of the 
grass is usually so hard and stringy as to be scarcely fit for 
use ; whereas, by allowing the heads to grow the proper length 
above the surface, say about eight inches or so, they will not 
only still be compact, but the whole of the " Grass " will be 
tender and eatable. 

ASPARAGUS PESTS. 

Foremost amongst the causes which tend to diminish the 
yield of Asparagus deserve mention the luxuriant growth of 
fungus on the part of the plant above-ground, the attacks of 
wireworms on its roots, and the depredations of the Asparagus 
beetle (Crioceris Asparagi), which abounds more in some 
seasons than in others, and is sometimes very destructive in 
one locality and almost unknown in others. The larvae feed 
upon the leaves, perforate the buds, and even gnaw the rind of 
the stems. When the beetle first appears it may be controlled, 
but if to become established the task is hopeless. Whenever 
the eggs or the larvae appear, cut and burn the plants as long 
as any traces of the insect are visible. The larvae, beetles, and 
eggs are generally found from the middle of June to September ; 
its larva state continues only for about ten days, after which it 
descends into the earth to undergo its changes ; and in three 
weeks the perfect beetle is formed, when it ascends the plants 
to deposit its eggs. The beetle, after eating into the vegetable, 
lays its eggs in the tender juicy portion of the stalk and leaves, 
and when the larvae (the produce of the eggs) issue forth, they 
totally destroy those parts of the plant with which they come 



22 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 



in contact. The most efficient plan of dealing with this insect- 
plague is to collect and " stamp out" the young brood, or better 
still, the full-grown beetles, before they hare laid their eggs. 
The work of collection must, however, be carefully proceeded 
with, for with the slightest movement the beetles will fall 
down and conceal themselves in the earth. After a time they 
reappear, and, if permitted, will crawl again on to the plant, 
lay their eggs, and recommence feeding. In his war of exter- 
mination with the beetles, the Asparagus -grower has no better 
friends and allies than the birds. If he is wise, he does all in 
his power to attract and protect them. 

Respecting the fungus, the first symptoms are observable in 
August. Small dark brown spots, which in a few days attain 
the length of nearly quarter of an inch, appear on the 
stalks, and gradually assume a much darker shade. These 
spots are surrounded by the ruptured epidermis of the stalk, 
and are somewhat inflated. On close examination, vertical 
layers of small powdery spots are remarked under the epidermis ; 
and it is their great accumulation here and there which causes 
the latter to burst. The injury done to the parts of the 
vegetable that are above the ground has an unfavourable effect 
on the roots, checking their development, and in the ensuing 
spring the yield of Asparagus will be found materially 
diminished by the premature death of many of the plants. 
As to the precise nature and proper designation of the disease, 
whether rust or another disease greatly resembling it, whether 
originating in (or greatly mcreased by) over manuring with 
nitrogenous fertilisers, and whether — as some maintain — 
never met with under the shade of trees, are questions 
on which uncertainty prevails. Should it be ascertained 
on further investigation that the disease is not confined 
to Asparagus-^-and Dr. Birnbaum has a noticed parasitic 
fungus almost identical in appearance on Couch Grass 
— the difficulty of combating the evil and preventing it 
from spreading will be proportionally increased. If it turns 
out to be rust, the spores alluded to are possibly the 
winter spores, which first develop themselves in spring on 
another plant, and are afterwards found on Asparagus in the 
form of mycelium or spawn. On one point, viz., the dangerous 
character of the disease, there is unfortunately no room for 
doubt, and the grower has every reason to be careful that it 
shall not gain ground, or be imported into districts hitherto 
free from it. Above all things he must endeavour to prevent 
the discharge of the spores — the organs of reproduction — 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 



23 



and, as soon as any signs of disease show themselves, his best 
course is to remove the parts attacked and burn them. 

Wireworms are sometimes very destructive to the roots of 
Asparagus, but by means of dressings of salt, pieces cf Carrots 
or Potatoes attached to a skewer, and buried a few inches in 
the ground near the crowns, they may be attracted and 
destroyed ; these decoys should be examined once every two 
'Jays or so. Snails and slugs often attack the plants in mild 
springs, just as they push through the soil, but they may 
readily be got rid of by dusting the ground with lime. 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE, 



BY 

M. GODEFKOY-LEBCEUF. 

Varieties of Asparagus.— Originally there was but one 
form of edible Asparagus, the wild Asparagus (Asparagus 
officinalis), from which have sprung the common garden 
Asparagus and the Giant Asparagus. The former gave rise 
to the Early Pink Asparagus grown in Holland, at Ulm, and 
at Argenteuil, and the Late Pink Asparagus grown at the 
same places. Culture and selection have so great an influence 
on vegetables that they modify not only their constitution, but 
their mode of growth and their flavour. It is by dint of 
constant observation, combined with great care and patience, 
that the Asparagus growers at Argenteuil have succeeded in 
improving this vegetable by creating, as it were, two varie- 
ties, the Early and the Late, and that they have rendered 
those varieties permanent, so that they may always be de- 
pended on as being superior to their common parent both 
in size and quality. Asparagus is grown throughout the 
whole of France with almost equal care. How is it, then, 
that there are only certain privileged localities which produce 
it in such perfection in every way that even after twenty 
years' growth the same plants yield abundant crops % This 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 



25 



apparent anomaly simply arises from certain growers having 
adopted an intelligent and rational method of cultivation. By 
this means the Argenteuil Asparagus has reached such a state 
of perfection that it is impossible to mistake it for the old- 
fashioned varieties. Compared with them it gives crops of 
triple weight and size, while the Early variety comes to per- 
fection ten days earlier than any other known kind. The 
appreciation bestowed on this variety everywhere is conse- 
quently fully accounted for. 

Early and Late Argenteuil and Dutch Asparagus. 

Late Asparagus.— The Late Asparagus as grown at 
Argenteuil is often flat in form ; the eyes are prominent and 
arranged in a spiral, and the point is short and stumpy. When 
well grown the heads are from in. to 7J in. in circum- 
ference at a distance of 8f in. from the tip. Fig. 1 shows 
one of these heads drawn from nature. There were others 
grown at the same time which were much larger, but this 
one was chosen on account of its representing the purest type 
of this variety. The entire stem of the Late Asparagus 
when full grown measures from 5 ft. 10 in. to 7 ft. 8 in. in 
height. This variety is very vigorous, will thrive in almost 
any kind of soil, and lasts for many years. The crown of 
the root rises but slowly out of the ground ; the Late variety 
therefore is better adapted for a shallow soil than the Early 
variety. It produces less than its congener during the first 
years of its growth ; but, on the other hand, it lasts much 
longer. We have seen Asparagus beds twenty-seven years 
old which still yielded abundant crops, the heads measuring 
from 2J in. to 3^ in. in circumference. 

Early Asparagus.— The Early Argenteuil Asparagus 
(fig. 2) is generally round, but sometimes slightly flattened. 
The eyes are not so prominent as in the Late variety, and they 
form less regular spirals. The point is conical, often swollen 
in the middle, and longer. The heads measure from 2f in. to 
«5J in. in circumference at 8f in. from the tip. Fig. 2 shows 
a head of Early Asparagus of the average size drawn from 



25 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 



nature by M. Godefroy-Lebceuf. There were many heads 
grown at the same time which were much larger, but a 
medium-sized head was chosen as being a type of the variety 




Fig. 1.— Late Asparagus. Mg, 2.— Early Asparagus. 



which is most in favour in the Paris market. The Early 
Asparagus attains a much greater development than the Late, 
often reaching to the height of 10 ft. It is very vigorous, 
and is not particular as to the richness of the soil ; neverthe- 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 27 

less it requires a depth of at least 10 in., for the crown of 
the root rises every year about \ in. It begins to yield at 
the end of the third year, and from six years old it gives 
good crops for from fourteen to fifteen years. After this 
time the heads are somewhat smaller, but the crop is abun- 
dant. When well cultivated it will continue yielding for from 
eighteen to twenty years. 

Dutch Asparagus.— Dutch Asparagus (fig. 3) is nearly 
always round. The eyes are arranged spirally, and are 
narrow and prominent. The tip is sometimes conical, at 
others elongated, and at times swollen in 
the middle. The heads are from 1^ in. 
to in. in circumference, measured at 
8 1 in. from the tip. Fig. 3 shows one 
of the finest heads of this variety, drawn 
from nature by M. Godefroy-Lebceuf. 
The general height of this Asparagus is 
about 5 ft. It is neither so handsome, 
so well-flavoured, nor so tender as the 
two Argenteuil varieties. It also re- 
quires a much richer and deeper soil ; its 
cultivation in France, therefore, has 
been given up by the best growers. 
Among other defects which are laid to 
its account are the following : it very 
soon grows hard, it opens its point very 
rapidly, and turns green in twenty-four 
hours. This variety fetches but a low 
price in the Paris markets, where it is 
sold at 1 franc a bundle, while the Ar- 
genteuil variety of the same size fetches 
from three to four times that price. It 
is not a good plant for cultivating on a 
large scale, while for amateur growth it 3.— Dutch Asparagus 
is unsuitable on account of its small 
yield and its bitter flavour. It should only, therefore, as a 
rule, be grown where other sorts cannot be obtained. It has 




28 



ASPABAGTJS CULTURE. 



been estimated that it yields only a quarter of the crop 
furnished by the Argenteuil sort, all other things being equal. 
It also needs greater care and a larger quantity of manure. 

The Soil. — Asparagus may be grown, and will thrive, in 
almost every kind of soil ; heavy and damp soils, however, 
must be lightened before they will yield abundant crops. The 
best soil for growing Asparagus is a light one, either calcareous, 
siliceous, or granitic. If the soil is hard and heavy, it must 
be made lighter during the first few years by spreading over 
the stools a certain quantity of sand, lime-kiln, or other ashes, 
coal-dust, and similar inert materials, until it has lost its 
property of hardening and cracking during the dry season. 

Preparation of the Ground.— Generally speaking, a 
great deal of very useless trouble is taken in the preparation 
of a piece of ground intended for an Asparagus bed. Some 
growers dig out the whole of the soil to the depth of 3 ft. or 
4 ft., filling up the void with masses of manure, which, instead 
of favouring the growth of the crop, are not only lost but are 
absolutely injurious. When the spot on which the Asparagus 
bed is to be formed has been decided on, it is only necessary 
to turn up the soil to the depth of from 10 in. to 12 in., 
either before or after the winter sets in. Large and small 
stones must be carefully removed, so as to render the soil 
easier to work. Asparagus requires a firm soil to root in ; 
we must be careful, therefore, not to dig down below a 
greater depth than 12 in., for if the roots bury themselves at 
too great a depth they will feel the effects of the atmosphere 
in a very small degree. Their growth will be consequently 
retarded, the crop will be smaller, the heads thinner, and the 
plants shorter-lived. The soil ought to be allowed to 
remain fallow after digging, that is to say, nothing but the 
rake should be passed over it to make all smooth — thus 
enabling the frost to have a greater action on it than other- 
wise. Whatever may be the quality of the soil in other ways, 
it is of the greatest importance that the ground should be 
cleared of stones great and small, as they not only prevent 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 



29 



the heads from appearing above the surface, but, by lying on 
the tops of them, cause them to bend and become deformed. 
The ground should also be kept clear of weeds. 

Manuring before Planting.— Except in the case of poor 
soil, we need not give any manure before planting. If the 
soil is exhausted, we should dig in — either in September, 
October, or November, but not later — a quantity of well- 
rotted manure, so that by the end of the winter, when we are 
about to plant, we may find the whole of it resolved into soil. 
As a general rule, we must never manure at the time of 
planting, for manure attracts insects, and insects attract moles 
and mice, all of which are very injurious to the young 
plants. 

Choosing the Plants.— If we sow Couch Grass we shall 
certainly not reap Wheat ; and if we plant a sickly -looking, 
weak tree we shall never produce one that is healthy and 
vigorous. If, therefore, we plant puny Asparagus plants we 
shall only obtain a wretched crop. We have often heard it 
said that it matters little whether the plant is strong or weak, 
and that as long as we cultivate properly and give plenty of 
manure, we must necessarily obtain firm and well-flavoured 
Asparagus. There is only one species of edible Asparagus, but 
there are almost as many sub-varieties as there are growers, 
for . when the plant is grown from seed it infallibly varies 
when the seed-plants are not specially grown for the purpose. 
It is necessary, therefore, to choose our seed from those plants 
which produce the finest growths. Between the wild 
Asparagus and the varieties which are cultivated now-a- 
days the difference is very great. Notwithstanding this, they 
are all produced from the same type. Amongst these sub- 
varieties there are all kinds of shades, but between the wild 
Asparagus and that grown in Holland and at Argenteuil there 
is a wonderful difference. Take a walk through the Aspa- 
ragus beds of Argenteuil, St. Denis, Gennevilliers, Colombes, 
and Sannois, and when the time for cutting arrives, notice 
the shape and quality of the heads and taste their flavour and 



so 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 



you will soon become convinced that the different sorts cannot 
be mistaken for each other, neither as to earliness, quality, 
form, vigour, or general appearance. It is not sufficient 
to find out the localities which are celebrated for the 
best growths of Asparagus, but we must also find 
out whether they are grown by A or by B, and 
even then we may be at a loss, for in one plot B may grow a 
crop which leaves nothing to be desired, while the crop in the 
very next plot may be worthless. In using the terms variety 
and sub-variety we do not intend them to be understood in the 
strict botanical sense ; they must therefore be looked upon 
as cultural expressions, that is to say, that these varieties are 
capable of returning to their original type if they are neglected 
or badly cultivated. Nothing, therefore, is so difficult as to 
procure varieties not merely of good quality, but of exceptional 
quality. The choice of plants is therefore a matter of great 
importance in growing Asparagus ; so important is it, in fact, 
that we should reject all stools offered at a cheap rate, and 
always pay a fair sum for them, as long as we are sure of ob- 
taining a good variety. What possible good can there be in 
exercising economy in purchasing cheap stools which will only 
yield one-half or one-third of the crop obtainable from the 
best varieties for a few extra pence? In those localities which 
are most renowned for Asparagus — at Argenteuil, for instance — 
the growers attach the greatest importance to having good 
varieties, and they not only choose them from amongst their 
own plants, but from amongst those of their neighbours, so 
much so that a grower who has cultivated a number of seed- 
bearing plants with the greatest care suddenly finds himself 
deprived of them just as the time comes for gathering the 
seed. It has also happened that the stools were destroyed by 
those who stole the seed, so that the proper owner of them 
was no longer able to procure a supply at will. This trait in 
the character of Asparagus growers will show how much im- 
portance they attach to the choice of good varieties. Sharp 
growers, consequently, who have succeeded in producing rare 
sub-varieties, prevent them from becoming multiplied either by 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 31 

breaking off the fruit-bearing shoots or by destroying the seeds, 
so that they should only be recognised by those in the secret. 
If it is a difficult matter to obtain good seed plants in places 
where Asparagus growing is carried on on a large scale, it will 
be readily understood that it is almost impossible to find them 
in small gardens where the cultivation of Asparagus is almost 
unknown. How then are we to recognise a good plant 1 No- 
thing is easier to those who have seen it grow, or more difficult 
for those who have only seen it as a stool at the moment of 
planting. In making a choice, we must be certain of the 
seed in the first place, and ascertain that it comes from a good 
variety, after which we destroy all those young plants which 
show any signs of departing from the type which we are 
desirous of growing. This is an art which can only be 
practised with success by those who are thoroughly acquainted 
with rearing Asparagus. The wisest course to pursue, there- 
fore, when about to commence an Asparagus bed is to go to 
some well-known firm with a reputation to lose, and to place 
full confidence in it for the choice of seeds and plants. 
Even when we have a thoroughly good plant in cultivation 
we must know how to gather the seed at the proper time and 
in the proper manner. In addition to this all of the seed 
even from the best plants is not equally good. The seed, for 
instance, which has been gathered from a stool which has 
flowered side by side with a bad or medium kind, and at the 
same time, is worth nothing, because it has been fertilised 
badly. Again, the seed should be perfectly ripe, and it 
must be kept properly after it has been gathered. The 
last heads generally yield nothing but doubtful seed, which 
seldom reproduces the proper type. The seeds which grow 
at the end of the shoots also, as well as those produced by the 
upper and lower extremities of the stem, have the same 
defect. Those seeds, too, which are not sufficiently ripe or 
which are too small are sure to produce bad plants. Seed 
should be only collected from those plants which have reached 
the age of from seven to ten years and which carry but few 
seed-vessels. The seed-bearing stems also yield bad seed* 

3 



32 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 



By the above we can easily see that the difference between 
the difficulty of procuring good seed and good plants is 
enormous ; we therefore recommend the amateur and small 
grower to give up all ideas of raising Asparagus from seed. 

The Age and Strength of the Plants.— Two-year- 
old stools are still planted by some, but for a long time past 
practical growers have given up planting stools of more than 
a year old. The plant from a two-year-old stool is always a 
bad one, no matter what may have been the amount of care 
which has been bestowed on it, for the reason that it produces 
too many heads, which consequently lack strength and sap, 
General weakness is the consequence, and the crops are all 
puny and of poor quality. Asparagus is a plant of vigorous 
growth, but no plant in proper health would stand transplant- 
ing the second year without suffering from it; it would, in 
fact, give an abortive growth, which would never produce 
good heads. A plant which has come off a healthy stock is 
sufficiently strong for planting at a year old, and all of an 
older growth should be neglected. Great attention, therefore, 
is necessary in our choice of plants, and, as we have said 
before, bad goods are always dear, more especially in the case 
of Asparagus. The strength or size of the stools is of little 
consequence if the seed has been good, so that at the end of 
the second year there is but little difference between them. 

Form of the Ground for Planting*.— If you wish to 
plant a plot of Asparagus distinct from the rest of the kitchen 
garden, you must open several trenches at about 36 in. apart, 
10 in. deep, and 10 in, wide, throwing up on each side the 
earth taken out, so as to form a mound, as shown in fig. 4 at 
rrr. The line which passes beneath the letters hhh shows 
the level of the earth, and the upper part of the earth 
taken out of the trenches. The letters mm (fig. 4) 
show the stools in their proper position before they 
have been covered with a layer of earth. It will be noticed 
that the sides of the trenches are almost perpendicular below 
ground, and that above ground they form an angle with the 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 



33 



mound at the level of the soil. This angle disappears 
as soon as the stool is covered over with earth, and 
the base of the mound is at the bottom of the trench, the 
sides meeting in an angle at the top. Beware of digging up 
the bottom of the trench, or of hoeing or raking it as recom- 
mended by many authors. The soil should be left alone, for As- 
paragus likes to run over the surface and not to penetrate beneath 
it ; besides, as already stated, the roots, if they penetrate too 
deeply, will not feel the beneficial effects of the sun during the 
spring. On the other hand, they may meet with a subsoil that is 
cold, damp, and dry, all of which conditions are unfavourable 
to the plant, independently of the fact that the manure which 

& 11 H 



has been applied has great difficulty in reaching the roots, 
either nullifying its effects entirely or retarding them consider- 
ably. If the soil is very light, instead of digging trenches 
of 10 in. make them only 7 in. or 8 in. in depth. If the 
ground is very dry and we plant late, the trenches should not 
be more than 10 in. deep, and a hole of from 2 in. to 2J in. 
should be dug out to receive the stool. Loose earth is then 
thrown in and the whole is filled up until it takes the form 
shown in the cut (fig. 4). If you do not wish to have an 
Asparagus plot distinct from your ordinary kitchen garden, 
open several trenches a yard wide at a distance of 3 or 4 yds. 
from each other and plant in two rows. By adopting this 
plan your Asparagus will have a considerable space over which 




Mg. 4.— Asparagus trenches. 



34 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 



to spread its roots, which will by this means run no danger o£ 
becoming entangled with those of the plants in the neighbour- 
ing trenches. They will thus become finer, more succulent, 
and will last longer. Most authors recommend the use of long 
trenches dug to the depth of at least a yard, and filled up 
with all kinds of manure and composts. Experience ha& 
shown for a long time past that no method could be much 
worse than the one just described. Besides being expensive, 
the yield of Asparagus is late, sparse, and weak ; in fact, it 
is the primitive method of growing Asparagus. 

Distance between the Plants. — When we plant in an 
open plot the stools should be at least 3 ft. 3 in. from each 
other, but if two rows of plants are grown side by side they 
should be 2 ft. 8 in. from each other. For our own beds we 
have adopted a uniform distance of 4 ft. between the lines, 
the plants being 3 ft. 3 in. apart. By this means we have 
more room for the earth taken out of the trenches, and the 
mounds are more easily made and kept in order. This method, 
therefore, is the cheapest in the end. Whatever may be the 
distance, the weight of the crop is about the same if the plants 
be kept properly apart, but crowded Asparagus beds produce 
late and smaller crops of very inferior appearance and quality, 
besides which they are much more quickly exhausted. They 
require more manure, and their cultivation is much more diffi- 
cult and costly. Such plantations are more liable to the 
attacks of insects, and become unfit for good plants, seeing 
that they degenerate towards the original stock much more 
quickly. We have, therefore, everything to lose and nothing 
to gain by not planting the stools at a sufficient distance 
apart. 

Planting. — We plant Asparagus both in the spring and 
autumn. The autumn plantings do not succeed in light 
soils ; most of the young shoots die down during the winter, 
and those which resist present but a wretched appearance. 
In cold climates autumn planting meets with but little better 
success, even in the case of dry soils ; this is due to the fact 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 



33 



that Asparagus, being a succulent plant, does not grow in the 
winter like woody-fibred plants, and that it very often rots 
when it is placed in the ground too soon. It is only in 
southern climates that it may be planted in autumn or winter. 
Whether you plant in beds or borders, the proper position of each 
stool must be marked off with the measuring line and dibber. 
Having completed this part of the operation, bring a little 
light soil over the part marked, so as to form a little mound as 
shown at m m (fig. 4) of about 2 in. in height, and in the form 
of a flattened sugar-loaf, continuing the operations to the end 
of each line. ' You next take a stool and spread it out on the 
little mound, arranging the roots in such a manner that they 
neither touch nor cross each other, covering them up to a depth 
of from 3 in. to 4 in. with fine, light soiL Press the soil 
down firmly over the roots so as to bring them close together. 



Fig. 5.— Asparagus trenches after planting. 

so that the stool may not be disturbed, as well as to drive out 
all the air from beneath the soil, and the operation is finished. 
It now only remains for us to fill up the empty spaces between 
the mounds with earth, smoothing the surface of the bottom of 
each trench with the rake level with the line B, as shown in fig. 5, 
that is to the depth of 4 in. Fig. 4 shows a section of the beds be- 
fore they are planted, and fig. 5 a section of them after the 
operation has been completed, with the exception that the 
stools and mounds are shown while they are really covered 
up by the soil which has been taken from the mounds, where 
they formed an angle on a level with H H (fig. 5). The stools 



36 



ASPAKAGUS CULTUEK 



consequently are covered up as far as the dotted line b 10 1 
that is to say, to the depth of an additional 4 in., including 
the little mounds which have been flattened down by the 
superincumbent pressure, and are now only from \ in. to 1 in. 
thick. For planting under walls on the level surface we dig 
holes of 8 in. in depth, refilling with 1 in. of light earth, and 
plant according to the directions given above, filling up with 
3 \ in. to 4 in. of earth. Small mounds are placed round the 
plant so as to attract the humidity of the soil, if it is dry, and on 
the mounds must be formed others, or the Asparagus heads will 
be too short. Some authors recommend that the stools should 
be planted as soon as they are pulled up, but this is an error, 
for Asparagus takes root much more readily when it is faded. 
Like all succulent plants it is apt to rot if it is planted when 
quite fresh. It has also been observed that plants sent from 
a distance strike root much more easily than those taken from 
a plantation close by, and produce much better heads. We 
have ourselves planted on the 1 6th of April stools which were 
taken out of the ground on the 20th of the previous Febru- 
ary, and the plants which they produced were in all respects 
most satisfactory. 

Tkeatment of Young Plants. 

First Year. — The operations to be performed during the 
first year are limited to keeping the Asparagus plantations 
constantly free from weeds, hunting down the Crioceris Aspa- 
ragi, as explained farther on, and placing sticks at the bottom 
of each stool as soon as the stems are 18 in. or 20 in. high. 
For the latter purpose we insert a little stick of wood at 
12 in. or 14 in. from the stool so as to avoid all danger of 
hurting the roots, bending the stick over until it is in close 
proximity to the shoot we desire to protect. At the point 
where the stick touches the shoot we tie them together with 
a piece of bast or other tying material. This operation is for 
the purpose of preventing the wind from disturbing the stool 
in the soil by shaking the shoot backwards and forwards. 
This precaution is very necessary in localities exposed to high 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 



3? 



winds, but it is much too often neglected, and the Asparagus 
suffers accordingly. Where Asparagus is grown on a large 
scale, this support is dispensed with, the stool being covered 
up with fresh soil in the month of July. As it often happens 
that late shoots issue from the stools, they also should be fixed 
to a support as they come up. This operation is also unneces- 
sary when the plant is grown on a large scale. If very dry 
weather sets in, we may throw on the stools 3 in. or 4 in. of 
soil taken from the mounds. The rain and the action of the 
hoe cause the soil of the mounds to fall into the trenches, so 
that the stools which were once covered with 4 in. of soil, at 
the end of the season become covered to the depth shown by 
the line c, fig. 5. In the month of November the surface of 
the trench is brought down to the level of the line B, fig. 2, or 
even below it, by throwing back the soil on to the mounds a£ 
each side before manuring. 

Second Year.— In the month of March, after having dug 
up the mounds, we throw a few inches of earth into the 
trenches, raising the level to between the lines b and c, or 
even up to c (fig. 5), but not higher. In performing this 
operation we must be careful not to touch the young shoots, 
which will have just been formed, for if we hurt the stool 
the crop is endangered. During this year the same ordinary 
operations of weeding, hoeing, &c, are performed as described 
m the directions for the first year, keeping a sharp look-out 
for the advent of the Crioceris. In the month of November 
the trenches are dug up by taking up the soil as far as the 
line B (fig. 5) if the stool has not become raised, but in such a 
manner as to leave a good 2 in. on the roots. We then scatter 
throughout the whole length of the trenches either well-rotted 
manure, oil cake, or artificial manure in the proper propor- 
tions, throwing back the soil on to the mounds, as in the first 
year. The winter being over, the trenches are filled with 
from in. to 2J in. of earth, so as to bring them to the 
level of the line b (fig. 5), making the arched tops as high as 
the line d, describing the curve shown by the dotted line. 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 



Before making these mounds we must take away the old shoots 
by detaching them gently from the stool. 

Third Year. — During the third year we proceed as during 
the first, with the exception that if the plantation has pros- 
pered we may gather our first crop, taking only two or three 
heads, but not more, from the healthiest-looking stools. In 
.the autumn the trenches are cleared in the same way as in 
the first two years, and the mounds then are manured, as will 
be described presently. The mounds are lowered as during 
the first year, but we must only manure lightly. The weaker- 
looking stools are marked with a stick, so that they should 
not be earthed up in the coming spring, and so have nothing 
gathered from them. As for those which are strong and 
healthy we stick two or three old Asparagus heads into each 
stool, taking one out for each young head that we gather, so 
as to keep count of the crop. This is only done during the 
first year. 

Fourth Year. — This year's operations coincide absolutely 
with those of the second year, with the exception that we 
may gather one crop during a period of three weeks, taking 
care, however, not to try the weaker stools too much. The 
trenches are manured during the winter, and when spring 
.arrives we scatter over them a little soil, so that the stools 
may be buried to a depth of about 5 in. For this operation 
we must refer the reader to the Calendar of the Asparagus 
Cultivator.* From this period the stool producing its roots 
at the collar has a constant tendency to raise itself. It is for 
this reason that, having cleared it of soil in the autumn and 
earthed it up again in spring, in fifteen years the mounds will be 
lowered entirely to the general level of the beds, as indicated 
by the line h h h (fig. 5). In order to earth up the stools, 
we are consequently obliged to take the soil away from the 
mounds, which, so to speak, now become lower than the 



* See page 57. 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 



30 



stools themselves. The earthed-up stools now reach to the 
height of the line E (fig. 5), and even to the line F, if the 
beds are very old. Early Asparagus rises, as a rule, about 
J in. per annum, and the Late about half that distance. 

List of operations to be performed after the fourth year : 

1. — In November take away the tall shoots after having 
cut them away about 12 in. below the soil. 

2. — During the winter we must break down the mounds at 
least every three years. 

3. — Kebuild the mounds. 

4. — Manure must be distributed. 

5. — Make up the bottom of the trenches at the end of the 
winter (say from the 15th to the 20th of March), by covering 
them with 3 in. or 4 in. of soil that we took out of them 
and threw on the mounds in the autumn. 

6. — Towards the end of March take away the old heads 
and form arched-headed mounds of 7 in. or 8 in. in depth 
over the stools. 

7. — Hoe as often as necessity requires it ; but, whether 
weeds are troublesome or not, the whole ground should be 
well hoed four times a year from March to October, namely 
in April, June, July, and September. 

8. — Break down the small round-headed mounds immedi- 
ately after the crop has been gathered, except high winds 
-are liable to break the shoots, in which case it is better not 
to unearth. 

9. — Support the shoots with sticks if necessary, but this is 
not needful when the plant is produced on a large scale. 

Digging.— Under this heading may be included both the 
breaking down and building up operations connected with 
Asparagus culture, as well as the frequent hoeings which 
must be practised. The hoeings are a kind of superficial 
digging which only penetrated a slight depth below the surface, 
and are performed by means of a shallow hoe or even a 
Take. The other two operations are performed with the large 
hoe and flat-toothed fork. This latter instrument is but 



40 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 



little known and used, but it is of the greatest possible service, 
and we recommend it highly to Asparagus growers. 

Shallow Hoeing is a very simple and very easy opera- 
tion, so well known as not to need description. We ought r 
however, to remark that it is essential to use a very light tool 
and not to disturb the earth to so great a depth as is done 
in certain localities. It is only necessary to penetrate to a 
depth of about \ in., so as to cut off, the weeds at the crown. 
If we hoe more deeply than this we shall nolfonly bring up 
to the surface a number of seeds which will promptly ger- 
minate, but we shall cut the weeds too far below the collar, 
at the same time pushing them back again into the soil, so 
that after the next shower of rain we shall be surprised to see 
a large number of them lifting up their heads once more. 
Digging operations require a much greater amount of atten- 
tion than light hoeing. The labourer, armed with his fork, 
sits astraddle on the mound and stirs up the soil at the sides, 
throwing a little of it behind him without destroying the 
shape of the mound too much, and taking care not to hurt 
the roots of the Asparagus plants, which he may easily do if 
he works below the surface of the soil in the trenches. 

In sandy situations, or very soft soils, there are certain 
strong-growing weeds that the flat-toothed fork is powerless 
to destroy ; in this case the large broad hoe must be used, 
but it requires long practice to handle this implement properly. 
It is a very tiring tool to use, but it completely moves the 
earth, for it makes a hole like a spade. The hoe has the 
advantage of not interfering with the form of the mound, so 
that it leaves no work behind it. But, in spite of every pre- 
caution, the form of the mound is more or less spoiled by 
digging operations, so that it must be restored to its original 
shape by the aid of the flat hoe or the small hoe. Careful 
growers overturn their mounds every year ; others, every two 
years ; while others only perform this operation once in three 
years. There is no doubt, however, that the more the earth 
is disturbed the more active is the growth of the plants. 





ASPABAGUS CULTURE. 



41 



Manures and How to Use them.— By adopting the 
method of culture described above, we need only use a com- 
paratively small amount of manure, hardly double the quan- 
tity of that employed for root crops — Potatoes, for instance. 
All manures are apparently good for Asparagus ; there are, 
however, certain precautions to be taken in using them. For 
instance, farm-yard manure should not be employed in too 
fresh a condition, as it would affect the roots and certainly 
spoil the crop for two or three years. We must also beware 
of employing other manures of too active a nature, such as 
lime, sheep's, asses', or mules' manure in too large doses. We 
may obtain excellent results on certain soils by using a double 
dressing composed of one-half stable manure and one-half dried 
blood, guano, burnt seaweed, &e., but it must be tried on a 
small scale before applying it to the whole plantation. The 
ingredients are not to be mixed together, but applied separately, 
the blood, guano, or seaweed being used first. A good deal 
has been said about the use of common salt in Asparagus 
culture ; but we have tried it several times without being able 
to come to any exact opinion on the subject. We should 
consequently advise Asparagus growers to make a trial of it 
on a small scale before applying it to the whole of their beds, 
in order not to run the risk of accident. There are two 
methods of applying manures — the first by placing them in the 
trenches ; the second by distributing them over the mounds. 
The following is the general mode of procedure : We must 
always be careful to manure either before or at the begin- 
ning of the winter, in order that the rains may have time to 
dissolve the more soluble portions and carry them down to 
the roots. If we defer the application of the manure until 
spring, the good effects of it will scarcely be apparent, or it 
will not be perceived until a year has elapsed, When we 
adopt the system of dressing the trenches, we begin by taking 
off the top of the small mounds, and, this being done, we 
spread the manure throughout the whole length and breadth 
of the trench, taking care to keep the stools free from it, 
and more especially the spots from which the young heads 



42 



ASPAEAGUS CULTURE. 



will spring, as the immediate contact of manure of any kind 
with them will rust them and render them unsaleable and 
uneatable. The quantity of manure to be used varies accord- 
ing to circumstances. In the case of short stable manure, 
from which all the long straw has been removed, it is applied 
in a layer of from 1 in. to in. in thickness across the 
whole width of the trench, or only from 16 in. to 20 in. in 
length, according to the age of the stools. At Argenteuil 
a cubic foot of night-soil is used for every five or six 
stools, that is to say, about a cubic yard for every 140 stools, 
once in two years. In spring, the soil which was taken 
during the process of unearthing, is replaced, so that the 
manure now becomes covered to the depth of from 3 in. to 
4 in. In manuring the mounds we must begin to open them 
up as soon as possible, that is to say, towards the end of 
October. This is effected by cutting a number of trenches 
14 in. in width and of such a depth as to reach to the 
bottom of the main trenches without injuring the roots of 
the plants. The soil which is taken out of these small 
trenches is deposited in the main trenches between each stool 
of Asparagus, so placed as not to cover up these latter ; in 
fact, so that it may be gathered up again when necessary 
without endangering the young shoots which mark the posi- 
tion of the stools. These small trenches being made, the 
manure is thrown into them to a depth of at least 2 J in., the 
extra soil is replaced, and the mounds are trimmed up. The 
trenches are opened up either with the flat hoe or with the 
spade. The flat hoe is the most difficult to manage, but the 
work is done much quicker than when the spade is used. 
"We should advise Asparagus growers to use the flat hoe in 
localities where the soil is pretty free from stones. In stony 
soils the trenches are somewhat difficult to open up, and we 
are sometimes obliged to have recourse to the large-toothed 
fork to stir up the soil, which is afterwards carried away by 
the shoveL In the latter case we must manure much more 
generously, and only undertake this operation once every four 
or five years, in order to avoid a too frequent recurrence of 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 



43 



the expense and inconvenience it gives rise to. It may be 
performed during the fourth, eighth, and twelfth years. 

Unearthing.— This is the term given by the Argenteuil 
growers to the operation which consists in taking out the soil 
from the bottom of the hollows or trenches in which the 
Asparagus stools are planted and throwing it upon the mound 
from which it was taken. When first a plantation is made 
the intermediate mounds have a pretty rapid slope, that is to 
say, they form an angle of 45° with the perpendicular. It is 
plain, therefore, that the soil forming their sides will gradu- 
ally tend to fill up the intervening hollows, either from the 
action of the rain or from the constant weedings with or 
without the use of the hoe. Commencing with the autumn 
immediately following the first planting we must begin to 
unearth, that is to say, to clear out of the trenches the soil 
which has fallen into them from the sides of the mounds, and 
also remove from above the stools a portion of that with 
which they were covered at the time they were planted, say 
to the depth of 1 J in. or so, so that the action of the frost 
may open the soil and that the rain may penetrate and im- 
prove it, also that during the first fine days of spring the 
sun may warm the surface of the soil and penetrate as far as 
the stool. Under the old-fashioned system the contrary 
operation took place. The trenches were filled with manure 
and stable litter for fear that the action of the frost should 
kill the plants. This is an error which has luckily long been 
exploded. The Asparagus will never freeze as long as the- 
stool is covered with a layer of soil of 1^ in. to If in. in depth. 

Earthing up the Mounds.— Earthing -up operations 
should be commenced at the beginning of March. This 
operation consists in taking out the soil which was thrown 
into the trenches at the end of the preceding autumn and 
restoring it to the sides of the mounds. Some growers 
divide this operation into two parts, one being performed in 
March and the other in April, so as not to interfere with the 
warming up of the earth by the solar rays, for when it is 



44 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 



completed at one operation the heat penetrates the soil with 
much less rapidity and the growth of the plants is much 
retarded. A layer of fresh soil \ in. thick is also thrown into 
the trenches, so that the roots may be covered to a total 
depth of from 3 in. to 3i in. Treated in this way Asparagus 
will stand the drought of summer without harm. For earth- 
ing up the large flat or the narrow hoe is used. 

Formation of the lesser Mounds over the Stools. 

— The formation of the lesser mounds covering the stools 
should be begun about the 25th of March in the climate of 
Paris, but in warmer localities about twelve or fifteen days 
before the first young heads begin to make their appearance. 
These lower mounds will vary in height according to the age 
of the plantation. The following measurements may be taken as 
being pretty near the mark : At three years from the first crop, 
from 5 in. to 6 in. ; at four years, from 6 in. to 7 in. ; at five 
years, from 7 in. to 8 in. • at six years, and for all the fol- 
lowing years, from 8 in. to 9 in. These differences in the 
heights of the lower mounds are dependent on the size 
of the stool. The stronger the stool the greater the depth of 
earth above it that it will support, seeing that the larger and 
stronger the heads the more easily can they penetrate the 
superincumbent soil, whilst a young and comparatively weak 
shoot will become sickly during the process of slowly pushing 
itself through, besides which, it will most likely become so 
deformed as to be unfit for market. By properly earth- 
ing up we may obtain heads of the following lengths : third 
year, 9 in. ; fifth year, 10 in. ; sixth year. 11 in. ; and all the 
other years from 11 in. to 12 in. For making the lesser 
mounds we use the narrow or broad hoe, taking care to use 
fine open mould which has been well exposed to the atmo- 
sphere, so that the young heads may push through it easily. 
If it contains any stones they must be carefully sifted out and 
not allowed to remain in the plantation, for reasons already 
stated. We must also be careful not to allow any manure to 
remain in these lesser mounds. In order to gain an exact 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 



45 



notion of the way in which these lesser mounds are formed, 
we have only to glance at fig. 6, where we have the section 
of an Asparagus plantation before these lower mounds have 
been formed. The stools are at the bottom of the hollows 
T T, and the upper mounds a a are at their greatest height, 
whilst after the operation of earthing up the lesser mounds 
has taken place, the aspect of the ground becomes completely 




Fig. 6.— Asparagus trenches before earthing up. 



changed, as seen in fig 7. The mounds A a (fig. 6) are 
lowered, their tops c c c being completely carried away, as 
shown in fig. 7, in order to fill up the trenches and form the 
lower mounds b b, covering up the Aspargus stools t t (fig. 
7). It must be perfectly understood that the lesser mounds 




Fig. 7.— Asparagus trenches after earthing up. 



which earth up the stools are not continuous ridges like the 
upper ones A A (figs. 6 and 7), but form little isolated conical 
hillocks, like mole-hills, the centre of each being over the 
centre of each Asparagus stool. Consequently, B B (fig. 7) 
represents a series of separate mounds and not a continuous 
ridge running from one end of the trench to the other. Some 
cultivators recommend that these lower mounds should be 



46 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 



made isolated one year and in the form of a continuous ridge 
the next. There is, however, no advantage in this : on the 
contrary, we think that there is a double inconvenience 
involved in this method, for not only is the labour of cultiva- 
tion rendered much more difficult and irregular, but the stools 
do not gain so much benefit from the rain. It happens fre- 
quently that during the gathering in of the crop heavy rains 
set in, followed by great drought. In this case the mounds 
become excessively hard, and the heads find the greatest 
difficulty in penetrating the thick crust of their prison. 'Now 
is the time to use the three-pronged fork and stir up the earth 
to the depth of from 1 to li in. only, so as not to injure the 
young heads, which are just beginning to push their way 
through. Three such forkings are sufficient for each mound. 

Gathering the Crop, Keeping", Packing for Market, 
and Transport.— The Asparagus cutter must know his 
business, otherwise he will do more harm than good by injuring 
the stools. In former times Asparagus cutters used a long 
knife curved at the point, the cutting edge of which was 
toothed like a saw or nicked like a scythe. This erroneous 
method has long since been abandoned, and the crop is 
gathered as follows : We must first of all clear away the soil 
which surrounds the head we are going to gather, either with 
the fingers or else with the point of the knife used for cutting 
it. The knife is then thrust down so as almost to reach the 
root, taking care not to cut or bruise the neighbouring heads 
which have not yet pierced the soil. The head is seized 
between the knife and the thumb as near the root as possible, 
by pressing the blade of the knife firmly against its base, 
taking care not to bend or bruise the head in the middle. 
The head, being held firmly between the knife and the thumb, 
is gently pulled or twisted out and removed, the ho]e left 
by it is filled with soil by means of the cutting knife or the 
fingers, and the operation is finished. Care must be taken 
not to cut the head with the knife, which is only used as a 
lever and not as a cutting instrument. In order that Aspara- 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 



47 



gus may be gathered in this manner, it must be grown on 
the Argenteuil system, otherwise the heads being hard and 
woody it will be found impossible to detach them easily from 
the parent stool. Where this method is carried out carefully 
it has a great advantage over the old-fashioned system of 
cutting with a saw-bladed knife, and we strongly recommend 
all growers to practise it. It is somewhat slower, it is true, 
but it has the great advantage of not wounding the heads 
surrounding those which are pulled up, as well as of sepa- 
rating the useless stump of each head from the stool, instead 
of allowing it to wither and rot. For this purpose we have 
invented a special instrument in the form of a large, flat, 
shallow spoon, which is very easy to use. The best time for 
gathering Asparagus is when it shows some 14 in. to 2 in. above 
the ground. If it is gathered sooner than this there is a loss, in 
consequence of the heads not being sufficisntly mature. If 
we defer it until later, the heads lose their proper flavour 
and hue, and become bitter in taste and green in colour; 
besides which it is only eatable throughout a portion of its 
length. 

Keeping". — If we cannot use the gathered Asparagus at 
once, it must be carefully moved into a cellar specially de- 
voted to the purpose. It must not be either washed or damped, 
and must be spread on the ground in the coolest and darkest 
part of the cellar out of reach of the light. Asparagus may 
be kept in this way for nearly a week, but it loses part of its 
flavour, becomes harder, and does not cook so well. If the 
crop is intended for market, it must be tied up into bundles, 
the size of which is regulated by the locality to which they 
are intended to be sent. At Argenteuil the bundles are 
generally from 64 in. to 7i in. in diameter in the middle, and 
from 4i in. to 5i in. in diameter at the head. To make the 
heads up into bundles, a small bench is used, to which is 
fixed at right angles a piece of board containing a hole of 
from 41 in. to 5 J in. in diameter, and If in. deep, the hole 
being backed by another piece of board firmly screwed on. 
About 10 in. in front of this piece of board is another up- 

4 



48 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 



right piece fixed parallel to it, and provided with a U-shaped: 
hole. This upright piece slides backwards and forwards in a 
groove and may be fixed at any distance from the first upright 
piece by means of a thumb-screw. One of the sides of 
the U is hinged, so as to allow the workman to remove the 
bundle. The workman sits in front of the bundling bench, 
and turning it with the hole away from him and the U nearest 
to him, he chooses the best heads of Asparagus from a heap 
by his side, and places them in the U, allowing their tips to rest 
lightly in the stopped hole. If the Asparagus is flat he 
places it in such a way that the largest part is on the outside of 
the bundle. The medium-sized and smaller heads are placed 
in the centre. The heads are so adjusted in the hole that they 
are quite level. When the bundle is large enough a strip 
of Willow is passed round it about 4 in. from the top, and 
firmly tied, but, of course, without bruising the heads. 
Another strip of Willow is tied round the bundle about 4 in. 
from the lower end. Any of the heads whose lower extremi- 
ties project too far beyond the bottom of the bundle are cut 
off level, and the operation is finished. Crooked heads 
may, with care and gentleness, be bent perfectly straight. If 
they break during the operation the two pieces may be united 
by inserting a sliver of wood into one of the broken ends and 
then sticking it into the other. When the whole of the 
gathering has been made up into bundles, they are placed 
upright in tubs or tanks of water, which must completely 
cover them. They are left in this condition for several hours 
and are then washed with a long-haired brush, which is passed 
gently over them backwards and forwards. They are then 
drained for ten minutes or so and are ready to be sent to 
market. 

Packing" and Carriage.— Asparagus is sent to market in 
large, strongly-made baskets, which contain twenty or thirty 
bundles and even more. The bottom of the basket is lined 
with hay or straw as well as the sides, after which the Aspara- 
gus bundles are put in rows and pressed together sideways 
pretty firmly, so that they cannot shake about. A layer of 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 



4.9 



straw is now placed, and another layer of Asparagus, and so 
on till the basket is nearly full, a thicker layer of hay or 
straw being placed on the top of all. Great care must be 
taken not to stint the amount of hay or straw used in lining 
the top, bottom, and sides of the basket, otherwise the tips 
of the heads will be knocked off and the Asparagus rendered 
unsaleable. The Asparagus grower who seeks to do a good 
trade must exercise great taste and judgment in preparing his 
merchandise for market. The first thing to be done is to 
place the largest and best looking heads on the outside of the 
bundle. Towards the end of the season, however, Early 
Asparagus becomes rather small ; we must therefore have at 
hand a certain quantity of large heads of Late Asparagus, so 
as to be able to " dress " the bundles in a proper manner. 

Different Methods of Growing Asparagus. 

As we have already said, Asparagus may be grown in a 
variety of ways — in square or oblong beds, or in borders 
under a wall, in separate stools, or isolated plots. 

In Square Beds.— This is the mode of culture which has 
just been described, and consists in opening a number of 
trenches side by side with each other at a distance of from 
3 ft. 3 in. to 4 ft. 9 in., according to circumstances. 

In Oblong Beds.— We have also spoken of this method 
of culture, which consists in planting two rows of Asparagus 
side by side, leaving a wide empty space between them, so 
that the roots which spread out very widely may not become 
entangled or live at the expense of each other. 

Wall Borders. — We may grow Asparagus on wall bor^ 
ders, in lines between the Vines in a Vineyard, or between 
espaliers. With a northern exposure we shall get . a late crop, 
with a southern an early one. 

Separate Stools. — We may also grow Asparagus in single 
stools in Vineyards in corners, in fact, wherever a piece of 
ground is to be found upon which the sun shines. Asparagus 
grown thus continues to bear for a long time, and in no way 



so 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 



yields to that grown in square plots. Most of the Argenteuil 
Asparagus is grown in isolated stools in Vineyards. 

In Clumps.— In newly-planted orchards we may pknt 
between each tree a clump of eight stools, which will yield 
good crops for fifteen years. The manure and cultivation 
given to the Asparagus helps the neighbouring trees. Thus 
we may increase our fruit crop and grow Asparagus at the 
same time. 

Each of these methods has its peculiar advantages. Plant- 
ing in the open square bed allows us to choose the most 
favourable situation for growing the plant without disturbing 
the harmony of our ordinary kitchen garden, but the yield 
is not so good and the plantation does not last so long. In 
the long-bed system we may grow Asparagus nearly any- 
where, and thus destroy the symmetry of our kitchen garden, 
injure the neighbouring crops, and increase the difficulty of 
gathering, by reason of the large extent of ground .to be 
traversed by the labourer. If we plant in wall borders we 
often utilise ground which otherwise would be very often lost, 
but with a southern aspect we must take care to plant at a 
distance of at least 10 in. from the foot of the wall. With 
a northern, western, or eastern aspect we can plant in the plot 
at a less distance. In the isolated stool system we may 
obtain very fair results in well ventilated situations. In 
Vineyards, for instance, we may obtain large crops of 
Asparagus of excellent quality. It is by adopting this 
method of Asparagus growing that the Argenteuil growers 
obtain such fine results both in the way of the natural 
product and the pocket. These isolated stools cost but little 
to establish, and last for a long time. We have seen stools 
twenty-eight years old, which still gave excellent crops. On 
the clump system, when planted amongst tall trees, we may 
gain great advantages from this mode of culture. As yet it 
has been but little practised, but we strongly recommend it, 
on account of the excellent results which it yields. It may 
easily be conceived that if we grow Asparagus at the foot of 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 



51 



a tree, digging, hoeing, and weeding are unnecessary, and that 
these isolated clumps will furnish large and good crops for 
many years, especially in those places which have been dug 
deeply for the reception of trees, or where new soil and manure 
have been laid down for the same purpose, and that without 
in any way injuring the neighbouring trees, which-themselves 
in turn profit by the care bestowed on the Asparagus, as well 
as by the manure with which it is dressed from time to time. 
Cost and Yield of a Hectare (2J acres) Planted 
with Asparagus at Argenteuil. 
Opening the trenches, making the mounds, planting 
the stools at the rate of 100 stools per work- 
ing day, at 4s. 2d., or £2 per thousand for 
10,000 stools ... ... ... ... £20 

10,000 stools at £3 12s. per 1000 ... ... 36 

Carriage and sundries, say ... ... ... 4 



£60 

By spreading this sum over twenty years, the average life 
of a plantation, we have per annum ... ... £3 

Eent of one hectare of land at 2s. 4|d. per acre, 

say ... ... ... ... ... 12 

Labour, one hectare, say ... ... ... 14 

Manure, per annum ... ... ... 14 

Cutting, pulling, bundling, carriage to Paris market 40 
Sundries, say ... ... ... ... 3 



£86 

The medium yield of each stool is half a bundle, 
which for 10,000 stools would be 5000 bundles, 
at say Is. 7id. ... ... ... £400 

Deduct for bad crops, damage, &c. ... ... 60 



£340 

Expenses ... ... ... ... 86 



£254 



52 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 



counting twenty years of full crops, for although we only 
begin to pull at the end of three years, the stool is just as 
likely to last twenty-four years as twenty. We have also not 
taken into consideration # the choice early bundles, which 
often sell for 12s. or 15s. at the beginning of the season 
instead of Is. 7id., besides which we must deduct the 
expenses of gathering for the first three years. 

Comparison between Dutch & Argenteuil Asparagus. 

A great number of persons do not yet seem to properly 
understand the difference between the Argenteuil Asparagus 
and that of other celebrated localities. The following are 
some comparative calculations which will enable them to 
judge of the merits of the case. The experiments of which 
the figures are the outcome were made on thirty-five stools of 
the same age of each variety. The plants were reared in 
the same soil and were seven years old, the gatherings being- 
made under precisely the same conditions. 

Argenteuil Asparagus. Dutch Asparagus. 

(Early. ) First gathering made April 20. 

First gathering made April 3. Produce of a stool during forty- 
Produce of a single stool during two days — 24 heads, weighing 
forty-two days — 29 heads, weigh- 605 grs. (say 1 lb. 5J oz.). 
ing 1540 grs. (say 3 lb. 6J oz.). Price at the market rate in the 
Prices at the market rate in the Paris market. 

Paris market. . 605 grs. (say 1 lb. 5 J oz.) repre- 

1540 grs/ (say 3 lb. 6| oz.) re- sents about the fifth of an ordi- 

presents half a bundle, a good nary bundle of from 3 kilos, to 

bundle weighing from 3 kilos, to 3 kilos. 200 (say 6J lb. to 6| lb.). 

.3 kilos. 200 (say 6 \ lb. to 6| lb.). The heads were none of them 

Amongst these heads there were very large. There were eight 

ten small, eleven medium, and very small, ten medium, and six 

eight large, which taken at the somewhat large. The ordinary 

ordinary price would have sold price for a similar quality would 

at the rate of 3 fr. (2s. 4|d.) per be 1 fr. 50 c. per bundle (say 

bundle, or 1 fr. 50 c. (Is. 2Jd.) ; Is. 2Jd.) ; the value of the crop 

but as the latter do not fetch so would therefore be 30 c. (3d.), 
much as the former, this price 
must be reduced to 1 fr. (9Jd.) 

Wishing to push our experiments farther, we undertook 
an investigation into the quantity of eatable substance con- 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 



53 



tained in each variety, with the following result. We first ot 
all weighed out 1400 grammes (3 lb.) of Argenteuil and 
Dutch Asparagus, that is to say, 

Argenteuil Asparagus. Dutch Asparagus 

- Grammes. Grammes. 
Undressed ... 1400 (3 lb.) Undressed ... 1400 (3 lb.) 

Con^td} 1070 < 2 " 35 ^SjS£$J }«*> (2-31 lb.) 

we? g d Ue d they ..}l050 (2-31 lb.) .. }l030 (2-26 lb. 

The Argenteuil Asparagus when The .Dutch Asparagus when 

served at table and eaten left a served at table and eaten left a 

residue of uneatable stalk weigh- residue of uneatable stalk weigh 

ing400 grammes (0*88 lb.), that ing 704 grammes (1*54 lb.), that 

is to say, the eatable portion of is to say, the eatable part of the 

the 1400 grammes of raw vege- 1400 grammes of raw vegetable 

table amounted to close on 1000 only amounted to 696 grammes 

grammes or 2*2 lb. or 1'53 lb. 

This variety took only twelve This variety took seventeen 
minutes to cook, and was tender, minutes to cook, and was some- 
Sweet, and pleasant to the taste, what woody and very bitter. 

These results show that there is really no comparison in point 
of merit between the Argenteuil and Dutch varieties. In 
point of quantity there is a difference of two-thirds in favour 
of the former Asparagus. Again, in point of price the 
advantage also rests with the Argenteuil variety, that is to 
say, 1 franc (about 9|d.) against 30 cents (about 3d.). As 
for the eatable portion, there is more than one-third more in 
the Argenteuil variety. Those who grow to sell will have 
little difficulty in deciding upon which variety to plant. The 
amateur also who prefers quality to quantity will hesitate still 
less, as the Argenteuil variety is sweeter and more succulent 
than the Dutch, which has a disagreeably bitter flavour. To 
this must be added the fact that the Dutch Asparagus requires 
a richer soil and double the quantity of manure. 
comparison between a plantation made with stools 
of a Year Old and another made with Stools 
of Two or Three Years Old. 

There are still persons who tBink that if they plant stools 
of two and three years old they will be able to gather their 



54 



ASPAKAGUS CULTURE. 



crops earlier than when employing plants of one year old. In 
order to disabuse their minds of this old-fashioned prejudice, 
we shall place before them the result of some compara- 
tive experiments which we have recently made in spite of the 
question having long since been decided. We plaited twelve- 
stools of one, two, and three years old respectively in the 
same soil under the same conditions and at the same time.. 
Calling those plantings Nos. 1, 2, and 3, the following is the 
result obtained during the first year : — 

No. 1. — All the stools came up before May 4 and were welt 
grown. 

No. 2. — Ten stools showed above ground before May 4,. 
one on the 10th, and one appeared to be dead. The Asparagus 
heads were very fine — finer, indeed, than those of No. 1 . 

No. 3. — Eight stools showed above ground before May 4, 
one on the 12th, and three gave no signs of life. The heads 
were very fine at first, but they became bent towards the 
end of the year (September 15) and were much weaker than 
those of No. 2. 

Second Year. — No, 1. — Well-grown, regular, and strong* 
heads, which measured on September 15 1 in. in circum- 
ference. 

No. 2. — Well-grown, but irregular heads, somewhat weaker 
than those of No. 1. 

No. 3. — Only pretty well-grown heads, very irregular, some 
of the stools having as many as eight or ten, but all very 
weak. One stool died after growing two heads. 

Third Year. — No. 1. — Magnificent growths, the heads 
measuring on April 10 from 2 in. to 3J in. in circum- 
ference. 

No. 2. — Growth passable only, but very irregular. Some 
of the stools are very small. The finest of them produced 
heads which from April 8 to 10 only measured 2 J in. in 
circumference. 



ASPAEAGUS CULTURE. 



55 



No. 3. — Growth very poor and very irregular. Some of 
the stools continue to produce small heads not much thicker 
than a quill pen, the largest being from 1J in. to 2 in. in 
circumference. 

Fourth Year. — No. 1. — Growth very remarkaHe. The heads 
began to show on April 3, 4, 5, 7, and 10. Some are from 
3^ in. to 4 in. in circumference, and measure 4f in. Fifty 
of the heads form a bundle which weighed 3200 grammes 
(7 lb.). 

No. 2. — Growth passable, but later than No. 1. The heads 
made their first appearance on April 6, 10, and 11. Many 
of them were very small ; fifty of them barely made half a 
bundle, and only weighed 1700 grammes (31 lb.). 

No. 3. — Growth but poor, and somewhat late. The heads 
made their appearance on April 4, 6, 9, and 11; one did. 
not show till the 22nd. Fifty heads barely formed half a 
bundle, and only weighed 1150 grammes (2^ lb.). To sum 
up it is clear that the plants of a year old in their fourth 
season, that is to say, after having been planted out for 
three years, gave a bundle weighing 3200 grammes (7 lb.), 
while those of two years old only gave 1700 grammes (3 J lb.),, 
and those of three years old only 1150 grammes (2 \ lb.) ; in 
other words, taking round numbers, the plantation made 
with the one-year-old plants produced double the crop of 
the two-year-old plants, and treble that of the three-year-old 
plants. The reader may easily draw his conclusions from 
the preceding facts. 

Sowing in the Open Ground.— Some authors advo- 
cate and many persons still adhere to the old-fashioned method 
of sowing Asparagus in the open ground instead of planting 
out the stools as already directed. This method of cultiva- 
tion is defective for two reasons : first, because if all the 
seeds do not come up we must begin our work all over again, 
which will not only retard the crop of the year and make the 
plantation irregular; and secondly, every plant, whether 
good or bad, must be kept in the place where it was sown, 



56 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 



Again if two or three seeds come up side by side it- is very 
difficult to thin them out, there generally being two left 
behind which give rise to a couple of stools, which will cer- 
tainly interfere with each other's growth, and will only yield 
a poor and uncertain crop. By adopting the transplantation 
system we need only use the choicest plants we can get, 
which is after all the easiest and cheapest way of obtaining 
fine and profitable crops. The difference between a planta- 
tion formed from seed and one made by transplanting the 
stools is very great, and is so much in favour of the modern 
system that it can be only ignorance of the results obtained 
by it that can account for the old-fashioned method being 
adopted. We have seen even at Argenteuil plantations formed 
from seed, but with all the care that it is possible to bestow 
on them *they produce exceedingly irregular crops, so much 
so that they yield less than half the quantity given by the 
planted beds; The defects of the old system are so apparent 
that we need not have recourse to any facts in proof of 
them. 

Utility of Earthing up.— We have often been asked to 
explain the part played by the mounds of earth beneath 
which the stools are buried at a certain time of the year- 
Earthing up allows us to plant the Asparagus stool less deeply, 
so that it has all the benefit of the manure, the rains, and the 
spring sun. It also allows us to shelter the heads from the 
influence of the atmosphere and the light, so that they do 
not turn green and hard, but remain white and tender, besides 
growing much longer. Another advantage gained by earthing 
up is to prevent all danger from the late spring frosts, the 
young shoots being so well covered up that they experience 
no injury. In certain localities people have not yet learned 
to distinguish the difference between blanched and green, and 
many affect to prefer the latter. This vulgar error cannot be 
too quickly extirpated in the interests of all true lovers of 
this delicious vegetable. In the case of the green Asparagus 
it is only the tip of the shoot that is eatable, whereas the 
blanched Asparagus can be nearly all eaten, besides which it 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 



57 



is infinitely superior in point of tenderness and flavour. 
Asparagus which is green at the moment of gathering should 
only be used as a garnishing for Peas. No one with any 
pretentions to good taste would serve up green Asparagus to 
table. In the Paris market green Asparagus only fetches 
1 franc a bundle (9*6d.), while the blanched vegetable fetches 
3 francs (2s. 4*8d.). The green Asparagus is never eaten in 
Paris, but is used for making syrup of Asparagus and other 
pharmaceutical preparations. 

The Asparagus Grower's Calendar. 
January. 

Culture in the Open Ground. — Finish manuring the 
trenches which have not received their proper share earlier in 
the season, and level the mounds. Prepare the ground for 
fresh plantations in the spring, and finish the hoeings and 
diggings in those places where the trenches are to be .opened 
at the end of the month. 

Forcing in the Open Ground. — The beds of the first 
season are nearly exhausted by this time ; we must therefore 
prepare others, so that we may have Asparagus in January, 
February, and beginning of March. On days when the sun 
shines we must uncover the frames ; if the weather is cold 
increase the quantity of stable manure, and, if necessary, put 
some inside the frames. 

Forcing in Heat. — Make new beds for Asparagus to be 
gathered at the end of January and the beginning of Feb- 
ruary. 

February. 

Open Ground. — Begin planting in dry situations* and 
open up trenches in moist ones, so as to expose the soil to the 
action of the air. Manure those soils which have become 
poor with well-rotted stable manure, artificial manure, ashes, 
•composts, &c, and replace the soil dug out before the winter 
.sets in. 



58 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 



Forcing in the Open Ground. — Continue the work of 
the preceding month, and begin gathering the second batch 
of forced Asparagus if you have not already begun to do so in 
January. 

Forcing 1 in Heat. — Keep warm those beds intended to 
yield at the end of February and the beginning of March. 

March. 

Open Ground. — Continue planting in dry situations, be- 
ginning only at the end of the month in damp soils. Begin 
to earth up at the end of the month those heads which show 
signs of appearing. Earth up in the trenches to a depth of 
2 in. or 3 in. if you have not done so in February. Begin 
cutting the early varieties. 

Frames in the Open Ground. — Take away the frames 
and stable manure towards the end of March. Empty the 
trenches and fill them with soil. 

Forcing in Heat. — Towards the end of the month break 
up the beds, the open-air culture taking the part of forcing 
in heat. 

April. 

Finish planting and earth up those stools which have been 
left open during the preceding month. Continue to gather, 
hoe and weed the beds and the mounds. Keep a sharp look- 
out for the Crioceris and other insects. Destroy snails and 
slugs, both of which are particularly fond of the young heads 
just at the moment when they show their tips above the sur- 
face of the earth. 

May. 

Continue to gather, hoe and weed the beds and mounds. 
Wage incessant war against the Asparagus beetle and other 
enemies of the plant. In young plantations especially keep a 
sharp look-out for the cockchafer grub. Sticks are placed at the 
foot of the stems of the young plants to which they are tied 
with rush or bast ; or else they are left unearthed, which is 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 



59 



quicker and easier when Asparagus is grown on a large scale. 
If the season is dry, from 2 in. to 3 in. of soil is placed above 
the stools planted in the spring, so as to keep them fresh. 
When once they have begun to show any heads above the 
ground, the stools may be covered to the depth of 6 in. with- 
out harming them. 

June. 

Discontinue gathering about the 10th of the month, or 
even earlier. We must cease gathering in those planta- 
tions which show signs of weakness, as well as those in 
which very early varieties have been planted, according to 
the season. A falling off in the thickness and length of the 
heads is a sure sign that the plantation wants repose. Con- 
tinue to hoe. Let the young shoots be attached to training 
sticks, as directed in the preceding months. A sharp eye 
must be kept on the enemies of the Asparagus grower, the 
mole, the Asparagus beetle, and the cockchafer grub. 

July. 

This is the period at which the Asparagus beetle lays its 
second batch of eggs. This insect must therefore be well 
looked after, whether in the beetle or larvae stage, or in 
the egg. War must also still be waged on the white worm. 
Hoe and weed where necessary. Young plantations in 
gardens in very light and dry soil must be watered, if the 
weather is very dry and hot, at least every fortnight, if possible. 
Young shoots should be tied to training sticks. 

August. 

Insects and other pests must be hunted down. The trenches 
and mounds must be hoed and weeded if necessary, and the 
taller shoots of the plants supported by sticks, so that the 
wind may not break them down. This is only necessary in 
situations which are exposed to high winds; in sheltered 
positions it is unnecessary. 



60 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 



September. 

The work to be done during this month is very small. 
When Asparagus is planted in vineyards the work is limited 
to tying the long overgrown shoots to training sticks to keep 
the wind from blowing them down, or to prevent them from 
keeping the sun and air from the Grapes, and so prevent- 
ing them from ripening. Weeding and hoeing operations 
are carried on if necessary weather permitting. At this 
period of the year the young plantations are usually free from 
the attacks of their usual enemies. At the beginning of the 
month, however, a sharp look-out should be kept for any 
straggling beetles or white worms. 

October. 

In light and dry situations we may begin planting, but only 
in warm localities. In the north and centre of France, and 
a fortiori throughout the whole of England, it is better to 
wait for the spring. We should also towards the close of the 
month cut down the old heads and begin to unearth, dressing 
heavily with well-rotted stable manure, artificial manure, oil 
cake, wood ashes, compost, &c. Damp soils are drained if they 
are intended for spring planting. Mixed mould, manures, 
and composts should be prepared for use in the coming 
spring, and a good supply of young plants should be secured 
beforehand. 

November. 

We now begin to force Asparagus in the open ground and in 
heat. The stems of the plants above ground are cut down to 
the height of 12 in., and then tied up in bundles for burning. 
The mounds are dug up and lowered, so that manure may be 
brought within reach of the roots. We continue planting 
during the first fifteen days of this month in dry lands. In 
the south of France we may plant during the whole of the 
winter. Unearthing is also continued, as well as manuring. 
The ground may also be prepared for the spring plantations. 
Borders and mounds and trenches are prepared for forcing. 



ASPAKAGUS CULTURE. 



Gl 



December 

The work indicated in the month of November is con- 
tinued, and unearthing and manuring are discontinued. Com- 
posts and manures are prepared for spring plantations and 
good plants are secured, if that has not been done already. 
Fresh manure should be added to those beds in the open 
ground where forced Asparagus is being grown, if the weather 
is excessively cold. Hotbeds are examined and, where neces- 
sary, fresh ones are made. 

Essential Points in the Production of Good 
Asparagus. 

Although the details of the system of growing good 
Asparagus require some little space to describe on paper, 
the essential differences between that and the system com- 
monly employed in England are so very clear that they 
may be shortly stated. Each plant is treated as an in- 
dividual — as a vigorous subject requiring much space in 
which to grow, if strong growth and strong shoots are 
desired. Long experience has taught cultivators that 
smaller space than 4 ft, apart will not suffice to give the 
very best result. At first sight people in this country 
might suppose that this means a waste of ground, but it 
really is not so. At first, when the plantation is* young, 
waste of ground is avoided by taking a light crop off be- 
tween the lines — say one of Kidney Beans or of early 
Potatoes ; but after a good year's growth, and when the 
Asparagus gets strong, its roots really occupy the whole 
space,, and the result is so much more satisfactory than in 
the common way, that the ground affords a better and more 
satisfactory return. There are two principal ways of growing 
this crop — one, devoting a certain portion of ground to it, 
as usual with us; the other* alternating plants between 
Vines or small fruits, or placing a plant wherever there is 
room for one. This last way is important, because it may 
foe carried out in small gardens everywhere, and by its 
means we should become more readily convinced of the 



^2 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 



value of giving plenty of room. Single plants here and 
there in the open spaces between bushes, fruits, or dwarf 
pyramidal Apple or Pear trees, or single lines, wherever 
room can be found for them, would, from the sufficient space 
allowed to each plant, soon convince all of the value of the 
•system. 

Planting. — Healthy yearling plants are always chosen, 
and they are planted about the time, or a little before the time, 
when growth commences in spring. They are invariably 
planted in a shallow trench, somewhat like a Celery trench 
— not quite so deep and not manured as that is, supposing 
that the ground is in fair condition. In a trench about 
8 in. deep the plants are placed on little low hillocks, and 
they are carefully attended to for the first year. The plants, 
be it noted, are 4 ft. apart in the line, and 4 ft. apart in the 
trench. It will be noticed that the second essential differ- 
ence between the common way — that in use with us — and 
the way it is now desired to make known, is, that in' garden 
soil of fair quality no manure is used at the time of plant- 
ing. There are soils in which drainage and preparation 
might be required ; but, assuming that the soil is as good as 
garden soil generally is, no preparation whatever is given 
beyond the opening of the trench and the planting of each 
foot in a little fine surface soil ; the great expense which 
has been supposed to be necessary in the culture of this 
plant is, at the commencement at all events, avoided. It is 
when the plants begin to get strong and well established 
that a little manure is applied. There is thus a great 
•economy in two things — in plants and in manure, which 
under the usual system with us is used to the most wasteful 
extent — so much so, indeed, as to seriously limit production 
by causing alarm as to expense. 

Staking. — A most important point is the regular staking 
of the plants, the stakes being firmly placed clear of the 
root and in a slanting position across the shoots of each 
plant, to which they are loosely, but firmly tied. The stakes 
are usually of barked Oak branches about 4 ft. long, and 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 



63 



calculated to last some years, but, failing these, any Horn- 
beam, Hazel, or stakes made from any other underwood 
will do. 

Blanching. — The question of blanching it, more or less, 
is apart from the question of cultivation, and people may 
adopt the only true system of culture without blanching, if 
such be their taste. But a closer acquaintance with the 
subject will probably teach many that there is something in 
this despised system of blanching, which so many persons, 
lamentably ignorant on the subject beyond experiences of 
their own overcrowded and ill-grown beds, rush into the 
gardening papers to declare it to be an absurd practice. All 
good judges and good growers know that it is necessary in the 
highest culture, and to secure the most delicate flavour, and 
also to prevent the rising shoots breaking in warm weather 
into scales or leaves before they are fairly developed. The 
best foreign Asparagus is blanched by piling little mounds 
of friable earth over the stools in spring. 

Home Culture. — Our markets are full of Asparagus in 
spring, grown in other countries, sometimes hundreds of miles 
from London. It is a vegetable which perhaps more than any 
other loses quality every day after it is cut. This is one reason 
why it should be grown in our own country. The soil and 
the climate of England, in almost every county, are admirably 
suited for the production of Asparagus. Nevertheless, not 
only do we not supply our own markets, but many possess- 
ing estates cannot get a good dish without sending to Covent 
Garden for it. All this is wholly unnecessary, for every 
farmer's garden and every cottage garden might grow it well. 
In large places, where a few beds formed on a costly and 
wrong principle now furnish a very limited supply of very 
poor Asparagus, there ought to be an abundance for every- 
body. Our markets ought to be supplied by our own 
people, the early supplies coming from the south and the 
late ones from our northern counties. 

Forcing Asparagus. — In order to force Asparagus to 
produce a crop early enough to be quite out of season, ifc 

5 



64 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE, 



may be grown either in the open ground or in heat. If for 
ordinary cultivation we ought to select the best varieties to 
be obtained, we ought to be still more careful in choosing 
our plants when we are going to force them. The strongest 
and healthiest-looking plants should be chosen for this pur- 
pose. 

Forcing in the Open Ground. — Beds are prepared in 
the ordinary way of ft. in width with a distance between 
them of from 2 ft. 2 in. to 2 ft. 4 in., the stools being planted 
about 1 ft. 1 in. apart in every direction, so that there are 
three longitudinal rows of plants in each bed, the outer rows 
being about 6 \ in. from the edge of the bed. The same care 
is bestowed on these plantations as on others, and when the 
third winter comes, we may begin to force the Asparagus 
planted in this manner. For this purpose, towards the end 
of October or the beginning of November, we dig out 
the soil forming the pathways between the beds to the depth 
of about 1 ft. 8 in., the trench itself being about 2 ft. 4 in. 
in width. In digging out these trenches we throw out suffi- 
cient soil to cover the stools to the depth of about 1 ft., in 
order that the forced heads may be of a good length, and 
may remain white. This done, we fill up the trenches with 
good fresh stable manure, beating it down evenly, after which 
we cover the beds with as many frames, with their accom- 
panying lights, as they will hold to keep up the heat of the 
beds. The frames should be about 6 in. or 7 in. apart. If 
we place any stable manure inside the frames, it must be 
taken out fifteen clays after it has been put in for reasons before 
explained. Every evening towards sunset straw mats are 
thrown over the frames to prevent chilling. If the cold is 
persistent, or increases in severity, the straw mats should be 
doubled, and if it be very intense we may even fill up the 
spaces between the frames with warm stable litter, and do 
the same with the trenches between the rows. Asparagus 
treated in this fashion begins to show above the soil in from 
twelve to fifteen days, according to the heat to whioh the 
l)eds have been subjected. If the weather is very cold, they 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 



65 



will take a much longer time in making their appearance. In 
the latter case we must redouble the precautions we have 
taken to keep in the heat, heaping on stable manure with a 
lavish hand, stopping up every nook and cranny in the frames 
and preventing the snow from melting on them. By this 
means we obtain perfectly white heads, but if we wish to have 
them tinged with pink we must take off the straw mats when- 
ever the sun is warm and clear, and we shall find that they 
will be rapidly coloured by the action of the light. The heads 
should be cut every other day, and the cutting may be kept 
up for a couple of months. The following winter, the manure 
surrounding the frames and in the trenches is taken away, 
and the plantation is allowed to rest quiet until 'the second 
winter, when the same operations may be gone through. We 
may thus continue to force every other winter until the 
quality and quantity of the Asparagus show signs of lower- 
ing. In the spring which follows the winter during which 
the forcing has taken place, we must, of course, refrain from 
gathering, otherwise we shall endanger the future safety of 
the beds. Forcing every other winter is as much as the 
plants will bear. In order to be able to force every winter, 
we should have two or four plantations, one or two of which 
should be used for the purpose turn-and-turn-about. As each 
bed ought only to be used for two months, a quadruple set is 
advisable, so that we may be kept supplied during November, 
December, January, and February. 

Forcing in Heat.— The Asparagus grown in heat is 
known as green Asparagus, and is eaten with white sauce or 
as a garnishing with green Peas. This method of forcing is 
carried on from the month of November until the month of 
March. Each bed only yields for a month. A hotbed is 
made in the usual way and is covered with 2i in. or 3J in. of 
rotten manure, after which the frame and lights are placed in 
position. When it has cooled down sufficiently, that is to 
say, in about eight or nine days, the stools are planted. The 
plants chosen for forcing ought to be three years old, well 
-grown, and provided with a full allowance of roots. The 



66 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 



roots must be gathered together and their extreme ends 
clipped. The stools are then placed in the bed in such a 
way that they may touch and support each other. They are 
so arranged that their heads are all level. Rotten manure is 
then thrown in between the roots, leaving the eyes uncovered, 
and the lights and frame are so arranged that the heads will 
find sufficient room between the bed and the glass to grow to 
their proper length without being bent. Under an ordinary 
light we may thus plant four or five stools, each of which 
will begin to yield at the end of ten days or a fortnight, and 
will last a month. This mode of cultivation produces very 
small and short Asparagus, and it does not possess the fine 
flavour of the other kind. These beds want a good deal of 
looking after to avoid all danger of chilling. Fresh manure 
must be added immediately the heat begins to decrease. The 
frames must be kept carefully closed, and the straw mats 
must be taken awaj* and replaced according to the state 
of the weather. -This method of forcing, like the pre- 
ceding, may be commenced in October and November, and 
by using several sets of beds, may be carried on during 
December, January, and February. Some growers have 
attempted to force old Asparagus plants, but they soon had 
to give it up, owing to its yielding such bad results. We are 
consequently obliged to fall back on the young plants brought 
up in the nursery for this special purpose ; it is, in fact the 
only way to obtain good and abundant crops. 

The Enemies of the Asparagus. 
The principal enemies of the Asparagus are the Asparagus 
beetle (Crioceris asparagi) and the white worm or grub of th& 
cockchafer. 

Crioceris asparagi is a small beetle, long in the body, 
and of a red colour, speckled with grey and white spots. The 
larvae are somewhat cylindrical, narrower towards the head, 
and are of a dirty olive-green colour, fleshy and shining. It 
only lasts in the larva state for about ten days, but during that 
time it commits the most formidable ravages. It deposits its- 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 



67 



«ggs on the tenderest parts of the Asparagus, which aie 
speedily attacked by the young larva as soon as it comes out 
of the egg. These destructive insects will devour a whole 
plantation in a brief space of time if their ravages are not 
checked immediately they are perceived. Incessant war must 
be made against both beetle and larva. If there are only a 
few they may be crushed between the finger and thumb. They 
must especially be looked for during bright sunshine, which 
is the time they generally make their appearance. If they 
are too many to be destroyed in this way, we must take a 
bowl or other vessel full of water, and holding it under the 
Asparagus, tap the stems lightly, so as to shake off the insects 
into the water. As soon as they feel the blow their instinct 
teaches them to imitate death and drop off the shoot. When 
all have been caught the water may be thrown on the 
ground and the insects crushed to death with the foot; or, 
what is better still, the cold water should be strained off and 
boiling water poured on them. The Asparagus beetle lays twice 
a year — in the spring and in June or J uly. 

The Mole. — The mole does not feed on the Asparagus 
plant, but it damages the roots by displacing them in forming 
its subterranean galleries, generally laying the roots bare by 
lifting them above the soil. The presence of the mole is easily 
discovered, and as soon as it is perceived, immediate measures 
for its destruction must be taken. We must either use mole 
traps, or else watch for its appearance hoe or spade in hand, 
so as to dig it out the moment it is seen lifting the surface 
of the soil. 

The White Worm. — The white worm or cockchafer grub 
is one of the most dangerous enemies with which the gardener 
has to deaL The warmer the weather the better its appetite. 
If you see an Asparagus plant beginning to look withered 
without any known or apparent cause, gently turn up the soil 
at the foot of the stool, and the chances are that you will find 
a cockchafer grub feeding on the tenderest parts of the root. 
There is only one way to destroy it effectually, and that ia 



68 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 



to dig for it and crush, the life out of it with your foot. Lime r 
sulphur, and other insect poisons have apparently no effect on 
it. Some growers sow Lettuces, in order to attract the cock- 
chafer grub from the Asparagus, but the remedy is worse 
than the disease, for these pests flock into the Asparagus 
plantations from all parts of the garden, and attack the Aspa- 
ragus as well as the Lettuces. 



ASPARAGUS CTTLTUEE. Q<} 



APPENDIX. 

PRIZES FOR ASPARAGUS. 
With a view to improve and extend the culture of Asparagus 
throughout the United Kingdom, it is proposed to give a 
series of annual prizes, extending over a period of seven years. 
These prizes will be given in London, Edinburgh, Dublin, and 
the north and west of England in consecutive years. They 
are given with the object of having thoroughly tested in all 
parts of the country the plan adopted near Paris of planting 
far apart, and without much extensive preparation. This 
system may be carried out in the smallest gardens, in fields, 
or fruit gardens, without the considerable preliminary expense 
and preparation usually considered necessary for the forma- 
tion of Asparagus beds. The competitors will, however, be 
free to adopt whatever plan of culture they may think most 
suitable to their soil and locality. It is, however, wholly 
impossible to produce Asparagus of the first quality by the 
crowded system of planting in use in private gardens through- 
out the United Kingdom, and there is reason to believe that 
much rich manure given before planting is not only needless, 
but injurious. In the Paris system little or no manure is 
given at the time of planting. The plants— one year's 
seedlings — are planted in shallow trenches, 3 to 4 ft. apart in 
the line, and the lines about 4 ft. apart. There is no loss of 
space under this system, as a light crop is taken off the ground 
between the lines when the plants are young. In free, loamy 
soils of fair quality many excellent growers make no prepara- 
tion of the ground before planting. In England the plantings 
may be best done in April and in May, according to locality. 
Manure is not usually given till the plants are established, and 
then only over the roots. Asparagus is also grown as single 



70 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 



plants, and also in single rows. As large single plants it is 
often grown in the Vineyards, or here and there among small 
fruits, or in any open spots of ground. In these cases the 
plants are often several yards apart, or sometimes quite 
isolated. Equally suitable places are offered by our squares 
of ground occupied with small fruits, not to speak of many 
other positions. In single rows is also a good way, the plants 
in this case being 3 ft. apart. The first year's prizes will be 
competed for at the Bath and West of England Society's show 
at Tunbridge Wells in 1881. In the sixth and seventh years 
of the series, viz., in 1886 and 1887, the competition will be 
held in London, and will be open to American, French, Dutch, 
and all other Continental growers in addition to those in 
Britain. An account of the mode of culture these prizes are 
designed to encourage, with particulars as to places of meet- 
ing, dates, &c, is in preparation for distribution, and 
will be duly announced in the horticultural and agricultural 
journals. The prizes are offered by Mr. W. Robinson. 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 



71 



The following are notes from various correspondents concern- 
ing the seven years* prizes offered for improved Asparagus 
culture : — 

That many of our notions about Asparagus culture are out 
of date I have long been convinced, and I am of opinion that 
all our efforts as respects improvement must lie in the direction 
so clearly marked out in The Garden, and which should, 
with thinking men, require no arguments to prove or enforce. 
If any are dubious about this matter, let them plant half-a- 
dozen plants 4 ft. apart each way, and watch the result. It is 
some years now since my eyes were opened to the importance 
of this by watching the growth of a single Asparagus plant 
that had sprung up from a chance seed in a shrubbery. 
Asparagus is a moisture-loving plant, but the site must be 
well drained ; and I am told, although I have not seen it, that 
it grows wild in the Lincolnshire fens. I should much like to 
see the Argenteuil system tried on some of the sewage farms 
where the soil is of a sandy character. Some of the drier 
parts of the fens would make an excellent trial ground on a 
large scale, in connection with other crops of early vegetables 
that might be cleared off and marketed before the time the 
Asparagus growth filled all the space, which would be in July. 
The plough should then be introduced to stir the surface 
freely, and be followed by frequent soakings of sewage. To 
have fine produce the stems must be strong and tall, to nurse 
and develop the future crowns ; and therefore I think it is 
% during the growing period, after the cutting is finished, that 
liquid manure, or even water itself, would do so much good. 
But in a thickly -planted bed, no matter how deep or rich the 
soil may be, there is not room for the growth to expand 
sufficiently to develop a thicket of sturdy and vigorous crowns. 
Bamsey Abbey, Hunts. E. Hobday. 



72 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 



— In certain soils the Argenteuil system is open to objec- 
tion, it being inapplicable to districts where clay, heavy marl,, 
or other compact soils prevail ; and such soils extend far and 
wide over England. Asparagus growers in such localities have 
found by long experience that, in order to obtain a successful 
result, it is necessary to prepare special composts, and to raise 
beds above the general level of the ground, so as to keep the 
roots from penetrating into the cold subsoil, and to secure the 
increased warmth such elevated beds afford. Asparagus roots 
will travel 3 ft. beneath the soil, and, reaching clay, they soon 
decay or fail to act beneficially. The best examples of Aspara- 
gus I meet with amongst cottagers and amateurs, where no- 
special care is taken in the preparation of beds, is invariably 
in districts like Lincolnshire where the soil is light and deep, 
much of it gravelly sand or light loam resting on gravel. 
After trying the several plans of surface cultivation, the raised 
flat-topped beds, and the simple ridge raised from a 3-ft. base, 
and planted with one row of plants, I have proved that for the 
soil I have to manage (a modified clay) the last-named is far 
the best plan. It occurs to me also that as your prizes are 
offered for the largest heads of Asparagus, and not for the 
amount of produce over a given surface of land, they will 
reach those who can afford the most space and manure, or 
will be confined to localities enjoying natural advantages. 
Could you not restrict the extent of ground, or the number of 
plants, and make a distinction between Asparagus grown in 
favourable and unfavourable localities ? The economical pro- 
duction of every vegetable should always be made a considera- 
tion. 

Belvoir Castle Gardens, Grantham. W. Ingram. 

[What is here proposed is desirable, but cannot be carried 
out. We must do what is best in the interest of all. Suit- 
able soils occur in many localities in every county. Few would 
expect to produce the best result on unsuitable soils. We have 
seen good results from the adoption of the thin-planting way 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 



73 



on the stiff est and deepest clays in England, though we should 
not advise anyone to compete for prizes under such circum- 
stances. But the object is to let people throughout the 
country see that the wretched little spindly shoots grown in 
many gardens has nothing in common with good Asparagus. 
This once clear no one will be satisfied with the present mode 
of culture. — Ed.] 

A rich, deep, friable, sandy loam is doubtless the best 

soil in which to plant Asparagus, and when this is in a high 
state of culture manure, at the time of planting, is unnecessary. 
I look upon surface manuring with far more favour than the 
more general method of working in so much raw manure at 
the time of planting, an idea which has done much to deter 
the public from attempting Asparagus culture so fully as its 
merits deserve, except in the gardens of the rich. Any 
ordinary soil, with but little care as regards culture, will pro- 
duce good Asparagus. Doubtless soils and situation, &c, have 
much to do with its perfect success ; still, our system of 
cultivation is much at fault. 

Witley Court, Stourport. Geo. Westland. 

With the view of improving Asparagus culture in this 

country, I am of opinion that planting should not be done till 
May at the earliest. March is decidedly too early in this 
country, and April, too, in many places. Great blanks would 
be certain to occur in the beds ; and, as by the Argenteuil 
system very wide planting is recommended, the loss of ground 
would be great. Certainly, if no preparation of the ground 
be required at the beginning, it would be a great saving of time 
and money compared with the old plan, as deep tilth and 
plenty of manure have always been considered indispensable 
from the beginning. 

Worthy Hall, near Sheffield. J. Simpson. 



74 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 



The cultivation of Asparagus is a subject to which 

considerable attention has been devoted in various parts of 
the kingdom, but, so far as I am aware, always upon the 
thickly -planted system, whether grown in beds or in lines. 
The results in the majority of instances are, therefore, the 
reverse of satisfactory, considering the great expense incurred 
in the shape of labour and manure in making a plantation. I 
have already planted some on the principle advocated in The 
Garden — that is, single plants or stools amongst lines of 
Gooseberry bushes. I added no manure, but I intend giving 
heavy top-dressings. My reason for doing so was to let the 
sun and air in about the plants, to see if I could get them to 
stand the winter better, as we suffer badly here from their 
rotting off at the collar during that period. I have tried 
many plans to prevent this ; wide planting in unprepared 
ground is the last, and I hope it may prove successful. 

M. D. 

With regard to the cultivation of Asparagus, I have 

not the least doubt that the system which you wish to intro- 
duce is the best for obtaining large specimens, but I fear it 
would not answer in the case of market gardeners who have to 
pay high rents for their land. I consider that my success is 
partly owing to thin planting compared with that of my 
neighbours. Last week I paid a visit to a neighbour here 
who had planted some fresh beds, and who had got three 
rows in 2 ft. of space, which, of course, is too much crowded. 
It may answer his purpose for a time, but the beds will soon 
wear out. I shall plant a few single rows in two different 
gardens and soils in the manner which you suggest. In 
America they often grow Asparagus in single rows, but of 
course land there is much cheaper than here. I have always 
thought that our plan of growing Asparagus was both trouble- 
some and expensive, and, to avoid the facing or earthing up 
the sides every year, I planted two beds about 18 in. below the 
surface, so that now I have nothing to do but just fork them. 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 



75 



1 get as many heads in number, but they are not nearly so 
large, although they have just the same manure as the others. 
There is also another objection, and that is the cutting, which 
is a very back-aching job, as both hands must be down on the 
ground at once. I have not the least doubt that very good 
Asparagus will be the result of the prizes offered. 

St. Peter's- street, Colchester. A. J. Harwood. 

I have grown Asparagus on the Argenteuil system for 

several years, and, although I grow it on both systems — that is, 
in beds and single lines — I consider that that cut from the 
latter is the strongest and best. I always plant one-year-old 
seedlings, never older. I leave 4 ft. between the rows and 

2 ft. plant from plant, but I think that 3 ft. between them 
would be better, a distance that I am now trying. As our 
soil is stony and naturally poor we trench the ground, incorpo- 
rating with it at the same time some manure or good loam ; 
we plant in April. As to after treatment, when the plants are 
established, we apply manure over the roots in autumn and a 
dressing of salt in spring, when the plants are in active 
growth, and in dry seasons we give them occasional waterings 
with liquid manure from a farmyard tank ; last, but not least, 
we have to take great care to support them against wind- 
waving and breakage, which we do by running a line attached 
to stakes at proper distances up one side and down the other* 
This keeps the stems secure. 

Bloxholm Hall, Sleaford. D. Lumsden. 

I like your proposition with regard to the improvement 

of the culture of Asparagus ; there is great room for it, as the 
majority of gardeners are content to follow in the footsteps of 
their forefathers, and adhere to the old bed-and-alley system. 
I have long been of opinion that that system is not calculated 
to realise the most profitable results, but my aspirations have 
not gone beyond single rows 3 ft. apart and the plants 18 in. 



76 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 



asunder, a plan under which a marked improvement on the 
old bed system is observable in the size and quality of the 
heads. It appears to me that the Argenteuil system which you 
insist upon differs from this only in the greater distance 
between both plants and rows. As I have not access to any 
description of the Argenteuil system. I presume the manure is 
applied annually by way of surface dressing, and is not pricked 
in, but allowed to decay, so that eventually it will form a 
superstratum of decayed manurial matter of a considerable 
depth, through which the young heads appear in due season. 
Hesults which are, however, perfectly easy to attain in some 
localities cannot be obtained in others, with double the labour 
and expense, owing principally to sub-soil and situation. 
Bedleaf. John Cox. 

Tour proposals respecting the culture of Asparagus, of 

which I much approve, touch one of those cultural points in 
which I feel myself very deficient, having never got out of the 
rut of the old thick-set bed system, which gives quantity, but 
not quality. The only suggestions I have to make to your 
printed remarks are, that you might mention the depth of the 
trenches, and also whether or not there is any variety more 
suitable than another for this mode of culture. I happen to 
have two rows of one year's seedlings of Connover's Colossal, 
and those I have planted out in shallow trenches 3 ft. by 4 ft., 
as you suggest. I have no experience of this variety, and 
would rather it had been the Giant or Batter sea. Your offer 
of prizes will do much good towards the improvement of 
Asparagus culture — more so, perhaps, amongst private growers 
than in market gardens around London and the Yale of 
Evesham, where it is grown pretty well. 

Combe Abbey, near Coventry. W. Miller. 

Your plan of making the growth of Asparagus more 

popular is a very good one, and likely to answer the purpose 
intended ; in truth, there is a great deal of ignorance displayed 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 



77 



in the cultivation of that vegetable. It is a very common 
thing, particularly in private gardens, to pile up a great ridge 
of earth and plant three rows of two-year-old roots on the top 
of it, thinking that that is the right mode of culture, forgetting 
that in a few years they will have to pile up more and more, 
because all those plants which form a number of crowns keep 
getting to the surface. I believe that growing Asparagus in 
single roots, about 3 ft. by 4 ft., is the best for many reasons, 
and one is that it will apparently last for many years if well 
attended to. I do not agree with some that it is a waste of 
manure to give it a good supply at the time of starting, and I 
also think the ground can be too good. The seed should 
certainly, however, be sown on a piece of the best land, as the 
stronger the young one-year-old plants are the better. They 
should not be more than from 4 in. to 6 in. from plant to plant. 
By this means one gets good strong plants, which will have a 
good start. 

Little Button. Francis K. Dancer. 

The prizes offered for Asparagus grown on the Argen- 

teuil system will give a great lift for the better cultivation of 
that delicious vegetable. At present the greatest bulks of it is 
grown in beds where the roots are huddled together, and 
where it is not possible for them to spread so as to produce 
large heads. I particularly observed a single plant of Oon- 
nover's Colossal that I planted in the garden here, and which, 
by keeping it well staked from the time it was a year old till 
four years, produced very large heads, like the best French- 
grown Asparagus. The soil was rather stiff, and no extra depth 
was given it, but well-rotted manure was put on the plant 
every winter. Since my experience with this plant, I planted in 
1876 some in rows 4 ft. apart, and 2 ft. between each plant, and 
I expect to cut good heads in 1879. I am not an advocate for 
cutting blanched Asparagus with only the tips green, but it is 
the fashionable way of eating it at present. 

Welbeck. W. Tillery. 



78 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 



— I have for many years been of opinion that people poison 
their Asparagus with manure, and many people will not grow 
it on account of the supposed expense attending its produc- 
tion. I quite agree with the distances apart, plant from plant 
and row from row, given in The Garden, and think it high 
time that cultivators and others did away with the fallacy that 
Asparagus requires any more attention than a plot of Cab- 
bages or Broccoli. Periodical saltings and annual diggings 
of deep trenches between the beds do no good. The principal 
thing to be observed in growing Asparagus on the Argenteuil 
system is the preparation of the ground. Asparagus being a 
permanent crop, the ground should be dug or trenched at least 
2 ft. deep, and never moved with the spade when in a wet or 
unfriable condition. Of course, in alluvial or sandy light soils 
the trenching just spoken of may be dispensed with, but 
depend upon it in about three parts of the soils of great 
Britain a preliminary trenching will ensure success. I have 
tried Connover's Colossal and find it only the ordinary form of 
Asparagus when treated under the usual conditions. I have 
no doubt that larger kinds than any yet grown may be pro- 
duced, by means of selection, in localities where the plant 
grows best. I have noticed that Asparagus grown on the 
oolite in Northamptonshire is very green, and the tops 
not over large, but delicious in flavour. Some years ago, when 
living at Burton-on-Trent, some Asparagus sowed itself 
adjoining the kitchen garden in a piece of waste ground of 
a gravelly alluvial character, and this came much larger and 
finer than the same kind under cultivation buried 6 in. deep in 
strong pig manure. Ever since then (twenty years ago) I have 
seen the disadvantage of using so much manure. I do not 
agree with disturbing the surface Asparagus beds any more 
than is sufficient to ensure the destruction of weeds. All 
clayey soils should be trenched, preparatory to planting, but 
this may not be always necessary in the case of light ones. 
Stapleford Hall, Notts, "W. Elliott. 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 



There are few places inland that can compare with the 

soil at Argenteuil ; besides, the land about Argentenil is full 
of Paris night soil before the Asparagus is planted. The same 
system is practised by Dutch bulb growers. They work into 
the ground green cow manure to an extent unknown for any 
crop in England, and first take Potatoes on 2 it. Moreover, 
there is no soil that I know of in the three kingdoms so light 
and easy to work as that of Argenteuil. Asparagus is a gross 
and deep feeder, and can scarcely be too strongly manured. 
It also likes black, rotten, sea sand. One of the Messrs. 
Dicksons, of Chester, grows it of very superior quality ; but 
it is grown on one of the reclaimed farms from the estuary of 
the Dee, in salt sand. It also succeeds, under similar circum- 
stances, in the Lothians ; and, indeed, any sea-coast place 
should produce good Asparagus. I cannot help, while upon 
this subject, expressing great regret that a vegetable so very 
wholesome and easily obtained should be so completely ignored 
in cottagers' gardens. A good bed will continue to bear fairly 
well for fifty years with a little help. If we consider the 
quantity generally got from even a small amount of ground, 
say during some six weeks of the year, no other crop of any 
sort can compare with it. Surely cottagers now-a-days want 
something else besides Cabbages and Potatoes ? 

Cliveden. J. Fleming. 

[There are many places in England where soils exist 
quite as well suited to the culture of Asparagus as those 
of Argenteuil. We also know, from careful examination of the 
mode of planting at Argenteuil, that there is nothing what- 
ever in common between it and the Dutch mode of planting 
bulbs ; the fact is, that many of the best growers use no manure 
at planting time. The bulb ground is, on the other hand, 
lightly enriched. In this connection we may refer the reader 
to the preceding statements of Mr. Tillery and Mr. Elliott, that 
chance Asparagus, in waste or unprepared places, did much 
better than that sown in carefully prepared beds.] 

6 



80 



ASPAEAGUS CUL2UEE. 



FRENCH ASPARAGUS. 
With reference to the common error that "only 1 in. of each 
piece of the French Asparagus can be eaten," it is necessary 
to repeat that long experience shows that when French 
Asparagus is good, fresh, and properly cooked, from 3 in. to 
5 in. of the shoot are perfectly edible — and even a greater 
length than that. Unfortunately, most of the so-called French 
Asparagus is both stale and tough, from the fact that it is 
gathered long before it reaches the consumer in London. It 
does not come solely from Argenteuil, near Paris, where it is 
so well grown, but also from greater distances. We have lately 
been trying some samples from Toulouse and Madrid, from 
both of which places great quantities lately came to the London 
markets. Although good in appearance, their flavour was far 
from pleasant or natural. Asparagus very quickly spoils when 
exposed to the air, and one may judge what it must be after 
being collected in the Madrid market, sent all the way to 
London, transferred from the wholesale to the retail dealer 
there, and finally having several days or a week's airing in a 
greengrocer's window. We do not see why we should eat stale 
and stringy, if large, Asparagus from Madrid if we can have 
it both large and fresh in this country. This can be done, we 
know, and we have offered the prizes for the encouragement of 
the simplest and best mode of culture. Up to the present time 
Asparagus has suffered in English gardens through seven to 
twelve plants being usually placed where one ought to be, and 
from the needless and costly practise of taking as nearly as 
much trouble in making an Asparagus bed as in the founda- 
tions of a house. As to the question of Green v. White 
Asparagus, that is quite apart from the mode of culture. 
Those who do not like it blanched have merely to cease 
blanching it. Our own idea is that Asparagus for eating at 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 



81 



cable, (not that used in cookery) is in its most perfect state 
when blanched, as at Argenteuil, and also to a slightly less 
extent in the market gardens ronnd London. The shoots are 
gathered when about an inch of the top peeps above the little 
mounds of earth covering each root. In this way the upper 
portion of each shoot is of a pinkish colour, and the flavour, 
when fresh, most delicate. This is not our opinion only, but 
that of good judges who have tried it in all forms in France 
as well as in England. 



NOTE ON BLANCHING. 

This question is really not an open one at all. When we 
are told of hard sticks with an inch of green at the top, etc., 
then one's patience fails in presence of the facts which are 
easily accessible to anyone who takes the trouble to look for 
them. Throughout the whole of Continental Europe this 
vegetable in its best state is blanched, but perfectly edible to 
as great a length as anyone cares to go. In cooking, the tips 
are left one inch out of the water while the thicker stem is 
softened. The perfect cookery of this vegetable is common 
everywhere abroad. G-o into the best house in Covent Garden 
and ask a good judge for the best flavoured Asparagus that 
can be bought, and he will furnish you with what is all 
blanched, save a purplish tip. The man would choose the 
same for his own table. Such stuff as is now grown in the 
majority of our gardens, if sent by chance to any market, is 
sold with difficulty, and if sold at all, is cut up for soup or 
the like. It would take pages to refute the fallacies that have 
been written against blanching, but this much may be said 
here, that the French would not supply the markets of Europe 
with the best 6 Grass' if they did not blanch. More green 
'Grass' comes from France than England to the London 
market, but it always falls into the second quality as compared 
with the blanched Asparagus from Argentenil. There is not a 
flavour or a phase of the matter which has not been thoroughly 
studied by the people who grow the best Asparagus near 
Paris, and they have as good reason to blanch their Asparagus 
as they have to leave their Spinach green. 



32 



ASPABAGUS CULTURE. 



FESFE ASPARAGUS AT GUNTON" PARK. 

I have sent yon fifty heads of Asparagns grown on the French, 
system, as described in the " Parks and Gardens of Paris." 
The fifty heads weigh about 7 lb. When I came to Gunton in 
1867, 1 f onnd the Asparagus beds all on the old system — 4 ft. 
wide, and the produce of the poorest description. Notwith- 
standing heavy manuring and salting, it improved but very 
little. The soil is a sandy loam, resting on wet sand, and the 
drainage sluggish, owing to the gardens being fiat and low. 
In 1839, having read the chapter on Asparagus culture, I 
concluded that the plan was the right one, ^nd at once planted 
seven rows, 102 ft. long. "When three years old the beds had 
done so well that I began cutting freely, and the following 
winter I lifted the whole of the old beds and forced the plants, 
and since that time we have grown no Asparagus, except in 
what I may call the new style. Four years ago I made another 
plantation, 114 ft. by 30 ft., and now we always have an abun- 
dance of excellent Asparagus. I, like Mr. Fish, thought when 
we had our old beds that our soil was not suitable for Aspara- 
gus culture ; and even now I believe that there are soils mucli 
better adapted for the purpose. But what to me proves so* 
conclusively that the French method is the best is the fact 
that my present beds were raised from seeds saved from the 
old plants. In saving the seed I always, however, selected it 
from the plants that threw up the strongest stems, and before 
planting I allowed the young plants to grow a few inches, in 
order that I might select those with the fewest and strongest 
shoots, as I always find that a plant which, in its young state, 
throws up a quantity of small young shoots, maintains that 
habit in succeeding years. A plant of the above description 
will increase in size rapidly, but will continue to throw up a 
cloud of small spray, and never by any chance a vigorous 
shoot. I sowed last year a packet of Connover's Colossal, 
and have this season planted out two rows, each 102 ft. long 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 



83 



and 3 ft. apart in the rows, in order that I may be eligible for 
your prizes. In iny other beds the plants stand 2§ ft. apart 
in the rows, which are 4 ft. asunder. I have always thought 
them rather too close, as at the end of the summer they 
become a complete thicket. I found amongst Connover's 
Colossal just the same peculiarity as regards growth which I 
have described in reference to plants raised from seed saved 
here. Some of the one year's seedlings of that kind produced 
some six or seven small shoots, while others had two or three 
sturdy ones characteristic of the plant. I always maintain that 
to this matter of selection too much attention cannot be given, 
if fine Asparagus be the object in view. It may be thought that 
I allow the Asparagus to get too far through the ground 
before it is cut, but we like a little more green than the 
French, as a rule, allow. 

G union Park, Norwich. W. Allan. 

[With the above communication came fifty heads of the 
best Asparagus which we have yet seen grown in England. 
This Asparagus was blanched for a considerable distance up 
the stem, but not quite so much as the French samples, there 
being, on an average, about J in. more green. There was, 
however, such a great length of blanched stem, that the 
Gunton Park samples may serve to throw considerable light 
on the question of blanched v. green Asparagus. The portions 
cooked were about 7 in. long, and each was edible to its base. 
For Ih in. of the lower part of the 7 in., where the outer 
skin was tough, the interior was quite tender and perceptibly 
of a more delicate flavour than that of the upper part. The 
flavour of the whole was excellent, and the samples well 
served to show how delicate large and well- grown blanched 
Asparagus is when cooked fresh. The heads were not so large as 
the enormous " giant" specimens seen in Co vent Garden ; but 
these large heads are often hollow, and sometimes " monsters," 
owing to two stems growing together. Mr. Allan's observation 
about the different growths of the seedlings is a very in- 



84 



ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 




Specimen of Asparagus 
grown at Gunton Parle. 

{Tip of shoot.) 



teresting one. We would recommend 
his trying the early and late varieties, 
so much in favour with the Argenteuil 
growers, and testing their relative value 
in England. As regards the blanching, 
it may be noted that it is only a ques- 
tion of degree between the French and 
English growers. All good Asparagus 
that we have seen in either the Paris or 
London markets is blanched, the best 
English market -growers' produce being" 
simply blanched 1 in. shorter than that 
of the French. We believe that there is 
good reason for this blanching, and that 
it is not, as many suppose, a mere mat- 
ter of fashion. It may be remarked that 
in all well-grown Asparagus, as soon as 
a shoot gets into the free air, the scales 
begin to unfold and the head to open 
out, which, of course, must be avoided, 
even if flavour be not considered. Speci- 
mens such as those from Gunton Park, 
with a small portion of the top green, 
and with 4 in. or 5 in. below that white 
and perfectly tender, are the most deli- 
cate in flavour of all. No distinction 
can be drawn between these and speci- 
mens from the best French growers, in 
which the head is not allowed to show 
more than 1 in. above ground before 
gathering, and which have also from 4 in. 
to 6 in. of tender blanched shoot below 
the pinkish or green apex. It may be 
noted here that Dutch Asparagus ia 
often blanched to a much greater degree 
than the French. — Ed.] 



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Lionel Lincoln. 
The Deerslayer. 
The Pathfinder. 
The Bravo. 
The Waterwitch. 
Two Admirals. 
Satanstoe. 
Afloat and Ashore. 
Wyandotte. 
Eve Effingham. 
Miles Wallingford. 
The Headsman. 
The Prairie. 
Homeward Bound. 
The Borderers. 



Julie de Bourg. 
Lilias Davenant. 
The Soldier of Fortune. 
Compulsory Marriage. 
Stories of Waterloo. 
The Divorced. Lai 
The Albatross. 
Cinq Mars. 
Zingra, the Gipsy. 
The Little Wife. 
Adelaide Lindsay. By 
" Emilia Wyndham. 1 " 
A Family Feud. 
Tom Jones. 
A Week with Mossoo. 



The Sea Lions. 

Precaution. 

The Oak Openings. 

Mark's Reef. 

Ned Myers. 

Heidenmauer. 

CHARLES DICKENS, 

Sketches by Boz. 
The Pickwick Papers. 
Oliver Twist. 
Nicholas Nickleby. 

ALEXANDRE DUMAS. 

The Three Musketeers. 

Twenty Years After. 

Dr. Basilius. 

The Twin Captains. 

Captain Paul. 

Memoirs of a Physician. 
2 vols. (is. each.) 

The Chevalier de Mai- 
son Rouge. 

The Queen's Necklace. 

Countess de Charny. 

Monte Cristo, 2 vols, 
(is. each.) 

Nanon. 

The Two Dianas. 
The Black Tulip. 
The Forty-five Guards- 
men. 

The Taking of the Bas- 

tile, 2 vols. (is. each.) 
Chicot, the Jester. 
The Conspirators. 
Ascanio. 

Page of Duke of Savoy. 

Isabel of Bavaria. 

Beau Tancrede. 

The Regent's Daughter. 

Pauline. 

Catherine Blum. 
The Ingenue. 
The Russian Gipsy. 
The Watchmaker. 
The Corsican Brothers. 



GERALD GRIFFIN. 

The Munster Festivals. 
The Rivals. 
The Colleen Bawn. 

NATH. HAWTHORNE. 

The Scarlet Letter. 
House of Seven Gables. 
Mosses from an Old 
Manse. 

Lord LYTTON. 

Kenelm Chillingly. 
I The Parisians, 2 vols. 
I Falkland and Zicci. 
I Pelham. 
I Paul Clifford. 
I Eugene Aram. 
! Rienzi. 

! Leila, and The Pilgrims 
! of the Rhine 
i The Last of the Barons. 
I Ernest Maltravers. 
I Godolphin. 
I The Disowned. 
Devereux. 



I 

( Capt. MARRY AT. 

j Peter Simple. 
! The King's Own. 
j Midshipman Easy, 
j Rattlin the Reefer, 
j Pacha of Many Tales 
j Newton Forster. 
j Jacob Faithful. 

The Dog Fiend, 
j Japhet in Search of 
i Father. 

The Poacher. 

The Phantom Ship. 

Percival Keene. 

Valerie. 

Frank Mildmay. 
Olla Podrida. 
Monsieur Violet. 
The Pirate, and 
Three Cutters. 



The 



VARIOUS 

S rr.wART. 
Curling. 
Maillard. 

Maxwell. 
ly C. Bury. 

Kingston. 

Ds Vigny. 

Maillard. 
Mrs. Grey. 

Author of 

T. Cooper. 
Fielding. 
C. Ross. 



AUTHORS. 

Out for a Holiday with Cook. 

Sketchley. 

Tristram Shandy, and A Sentimental 
Journey. Sterne. 

The Mountaineer of the Atlas. 

W. S. Mayo. 

The Mysteries of Udoipho. Com- 
plete Edition. Mrs Radcliffe. 

Log of the " Water Lily " during 
ihree Cruises. 

Through the Keyhole. J. M. Jephson. 

King Dobbs. James Hannay. 

Fairy Water. 

Author of " George Geith." 

The Hobbsts and Dobbses. 



GEORGE ROUTLEDGE 6- SONS. 



A 



NOVELS AT ONE SHILLING-, continued. 



Light and Darkness. Mrs. Crowe. 
Lily Dawson. Ditto. 
The Haunted House. Gerstaecker. 
A Sailor's Adventures. Ditto. 
Pirates of the Mississippi. Ditto. 
The Duke. Mrs. Grey. 



Longbeard, King of the People. 

C. Mackay 

Valentine Vox. Complete Edition. 

Cockton. 

Peregrine Pickle. Complete Edition. 

Smollett, 



NOVELS AT SIXPENCE. 

Unabridged. 



Lord LYTTON. 

The Author's Copyright Revised 
Edition, in which are given the latest 
revision and corrections made by the 
Author, together with the Prefaces he 
wrote to the various Editions of his 
Novels published during his lifetime. 
No other 6d. Edition contains these Pre- 
faces and Revisions. 

Eugene Aram, with Three Prefaces. 
Godolphin. 

The Last Days of Pompeii, with 

Two Prefaces. 
Rienzi, with Dedication and Two 

Prefaces. 
Ernest Maltravers, with a Preface. 
Paul Clifford, with Two Prefaces. 
Leila, Calderon the Courtier, and 

The Pilgrims of the Rhine, in One 

Volume. 



Falkland and Zicci, with a Prefatory 

Note. 

Pelham, with Dedication. 
The Disowned, with a Preface. 
Devereux, with a Preface. 
Alice ; or, The Mysteries. Sequel to 
" Ernest Maltravers." 

New Copyright Volumes. 
Night and Morning. 
Zanoni. 

EUGENE SUE. 

The Wandering Jew. 

Part i (The Transgression). 
Do. Part 2 (The Chastisement). 
Do. Part 3 (The Redemption). 
The Mysteries of Paris. 

Part i (Morning). 
Ditto. Part 2 (Noon). 
Ditto. Part 3 (Night). 



CHARLES DICKENS. 

The Pickwick Papers. 2 

Parts (6d. each). 
Nicholas Nickleby. 2 

Parts (6d. each). 
Oliver Twist. 
Sketches by Boz. 

HENRY FIELDING. 

Tom Tones. 2 Vols. (6d. 

each). 
Joseph Andrews. 
Amelia. 

TOBIAS SMOLLETT. 

Roderick Random. 
Peregrine Pickle. 2 Vols. 

(6d. each). 
Humphry Clinker. 

W. H. MAXWELL. 

Author's Edition. 
Stories of Waterloo. 
The Bivouac : Stories of 

the Peninsular War. 
Captain Blake. 
Wild Sports of the West. 



Captain MARRYAT. 

Peter Simple. 
The King's Own. 
Newton Forster. 
Jacob Faithful. 
Frank Mildmay. 
Pacha of Many Tales. 
Japhet. 

Midshipman Easy. 
The Dog Fiend. 
The Phantom Ship. 
Olla Podrida. 
The Poacher. 
Percival Keene. 
Monsieur Violet. 
Rattlin, the Reefer. 
Valerie. 

The Pirate, and The 
Three Cutters. 

J. F. COOPER. 

The Waterwitch. 
The Pathfinder. (L. 2.) 
The Deerslayer. (L. i.) 
Last of Mohicans. ( L. 3.) 



The Pilot. 

The Prairie. (L. 5.) 

The Spy. 

The Red Rover. 

Homeward Bound. 

Eve Effingham. 

The Two Admirals. 

Miles Wallingford. 

Afloat and Ashore. 

The Pioneers. (L. 4.) 

Wyandotte. 

Lionel Lincoln. 

The Bravo. 

The Sea Lions. 

The Headsman. 

Precaution. 

The Oak Openings. 

Heidenmauer. 

Mark's Reef. 

Ned Myers. 

Satanstoe. 

The Borderers. 

Jack Tier. 

Mercedes. 

L.i to 5 are the 
Leather-Stocking Tales, 



GEORGE ROUTLEDGE <S> SONS. 



NOVELS AT SIXPENCE, continued. 



Sir WALTER SCOTT. 
Guy Mannering. 
The Antiquary. 
Ivanhoe. 

The Fortunes of Nigel. 
Heart of Midlothian. 
Bride of Lammermoor. 
Waverley. 
Rob Roy. 
Kenilworth. 



The Pirate. 

The Monastery. 

Old Mortality. 

Peveril of the Peak. 

Quentin Durvvard. 

St. Ronan's Well. 

The Abbot. 

The Black Dwarf. 

Woodstock. 

Anne of Geierstein. 

The Betrothed. 



The Fair Maid of Perth. 
Surgeon's Daughter. 
The Talisman. 
Count Robert of Paris. 
Redgauntlet. 

Mrs. RADCLIFFE. 

Romance of the Forest. 
The Italian. 
Mysteries of Udolpho. 
2 Parts (6d. each). 



VARIOUS AUTHORS. 

Robinson Crusoe. Defoe. 

Colleen Bawn. Gerald Griffin. 

Vicar of Wakefield. Goldsmith. 

Sketch Book. Washington Irving. 

Tristram Shandy. r Sterne. 

A Sentimental Journey. Sterne. 

English Opium Eater. De Quincey. 

Essays of Elia. Charles Lamb. 

Notre Dame. Victor Hugo. 

Gulliver's Travels. Swift. 

Last Essays of Elia. C. Lamb. 

The Shadowless Man. 

Baron Trenck. 

The Swiss Family Robinson. 

Rory O'More. Lover. 

The Wild Irish Girl. Lady Morgan. 

The Trials of Margaret Lyndsay. 

Professor Wilson. 

Two Years Before* the Mast ; or, A 
Sailor's Life at Sea. Dana. 

Valentine Vox. 2 Vols. (6d, each). 

Frankenstein ; or, The Modern Pro- 
metheus. Mrs. Shelley. 

The Scottish Chiefs. Jane Porter. 
192 pages. 

Nightside of Nature. Mrs. Crowe. 



AMERICAN HUMOROUS BOOKS. 

Artemus Ward, his Book. 

Artemus Ward, his Travels. 

The Nasby Papers. 

Major Jack Downing. [each). 

Biglow Papers. 1st & 2nd Series (6d. 

Orpheus C. Kerr. 

Hans Breitmann. 

Josh Billings. 

Sayings and Doings of Sam Slick. 

1st, 2nd, and 3rd series (6d. each). 
Autocrat of the Breakfast Table. 
Professor at the Breakfast Table. 
The Poet at the Breakfast Table. 

O. W. Holmes. 
Celebrated Jumping Frog. M .Twain . 
Luck of Roaring Camp. Bret Harte 
Innocents Abroad. Mark Twain. 

WIDE, WIDE WORLD SERIES. 

The Prince of the House of David. 
The Throne of David. 
The Pillar of Fire. 
The Wide, Wide World. 
Queechy. 

Uncle Tom's Cabin. 
The Lamplighter. 



RQUTLEBGE'S SIXPENNY SERIES. 

Under the above title, Messrs. George Routledge & Sons are 
about to produce a Series of the Cheapest Standard Books for 
Youth ever published in this or in any other country . Each book will 
contain from 64 to 80 large pages, in three columns, brevier type, with 
from 40 to 80 Illustrations, well printed by the best London Printers, 
and stitched in a durable paper cover. 

1. ROBINSON CRUSOE. With 40 Illustrations by J. D. Watson. 80 pp. 

2. THE SWISS FAMILY ROBINSON. With 40 Illustrations. 

3. SANDFORD AND MERTON. With 70 Illustrations. 

4. GRIMM'S FAIRY TALES. With 70 Illustrations. 

5. ANDERSEN'S FAIRY TALES. With 60 Illustrations. 

6. THE BOY'S OWN NATURAL HISTORY. With 300 Illustrations. 

7. iESOP'S FABLES. With 100 Illustrations. 

,8. THE ARABIAN NIGHTS. With 40 Illustrations. 



GEORGE ROUTLEDGE & SONS. 



6 



